Printable View
How long should my chain limiter be on the LR? I've read where the spring almost touches the cup. Is this correct? The one that is currently on the car lets the LR drop 2 to 3 inches past that point. Thanks again for all your help as usual. Would be tough without this forum.
Somebody gave you some SOMEWHAT misleading information.
You need to set the chain length to whatever it needs to be to get the desired amount of LR axle drop. It's different from chassis to chassis and even from one year to the next on some cars as the design change. The measurement is made with the car on jack stands and you measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail. So just like measuring ride height but just not at ride height. I would call GRT to see what they recommend for your car. The newer GRT cars are 17-3/4".
If you want to play around and see if you can figure out where it needs to be, put your upper left bar in neutral position and with the car on jack stands adjust the chain to where that bar is 45 degrees. On most cars this gets you pretty darn close if you don't have a measurement to go off of.
With regards to the spring touching the cup. That depends on who you ask and there probably isn't a right or wrong answer. Most folks use the LR ride height to set their desired LR bite on the scales. Also, some folks like to get it so that the LR spring is never completely unloaded. The only way to achieve that and maintain the proper ride heights and bite number is to run a softer LR spring. The down side to having that gap when the LR is fully extended is that if you dump the gas suddenly on corner entry (VERY common thing with a new driver) the car basically free falls until it lands on the spring. This removes rear steer very quickly and is an unsettling feeling (especially to a new driver). The car will kind of dart to the right and you'll typically over correct and end up sort of fishtailing going into the corner. This can happen even if the spring is touching but it is much worse if there is a considerable gap. The key either way is to just be smooth rolling off the gas getting in the corner. Especially when the track is slick.
A-Ron what part of mississippi are you from? I live in north mississippi and would be more than happy to help you out getting started setting the car up.
Thanks Matt yeah The one time I ran it last year I dumped the gas a few times and did that everytime. The upper bar actually hits the frame before the chain gets tight. I'm thinkin not need a to be shorter. Grt I live close to Jackson but I work in Ackerman. How bout you? I bought this car from Ashton McLeod in Memphis. Think they ran Riverside mostly
i'll add to what matt said, with the car on its wheels jack up under the drivers seat to hike the car ,check to make sure the upper link doesn't go past 46, degrees shorten or lengthen as needed.. another tip for a grt they say to set the j-bar at 19 1/4 a and run it, found out theres a measurement they don't list, center of driveshaft to inside edge of 2+2 for j-bar mount is 161/4 all 3 cars I've had where off by as much as a inch, really helps with consistent handling
Thanks Rak I will check that out as well ASAP
Aron I live in olive branch that's a good car you got I run riverside quite a bit also Aston was always in the top 5 there is some video of that car on you tube when he ran 3rd in it one night probably would've have won I was running second and he got under me but couldn't make it stick and showed me the faster line and we ended up winning by using his line to get around the leader
That's what everyone I have talked to from up that way has said. The car is for sure better than the driver at this point. I've redone the body, added a containment seat and collapsible steering column. He didn't really have any set up information, and had Carrera Shocks on it (I couldn't find any info on the numbers that were stamped on them so I purchased some afcos). I wanted to get it as close to the GRT baseline (going softer on the rear with a little less rear % since it's a crate)where I at least knew where I was starting from. Just got to the limiting chain and couldn't find much information. I only got to run it once last year after finding a timing cover and having to pull the motor and finding someone who could legally replace it. Here's a pic of the car now:
There is a man by the name of Bobee Polasini in Leland ms that built both of my crate motors I can give you his number if you are interested and didn't Aston run it as crate car I know the night I'm speaking of we were running our 602 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MeRGjksmm1U
Yeah he built that one too. Bobee didn't have time to fix it, but referred me to Randy Jordon in Greenwood who fixed it for me. Ashton ran it as a crate, but didn't really offer an information as to how it was setup when I bought it. I probably should've asked more questions, but didn't know any better when I bought it. I'm mainly just checking everything to make sure nothings out in left field.
What year is the car? And What springs are you running rf lf 5th coil rear etc
Sent you a pm
aron did you by chance check that measurement for the rear. grt62 you ever here of that
Never heard of that measurement but makes me want to check mine to see what it is we always set the jbar at 19 1/4 and make sure the measurement from brake rotor to birdcage is correct and run it you would be amazed how the birdcage being off a 1/2" either way will effect the handling
I haven't had chance to check mine yet either rak
found it out from jack Sullivan when he was with them, had a inconsistent handling problem, he ask if the rear was in right, I said at 191/4 and he chewed me out, said that was the measurement but its not in the book, helped a lot hope it helps ya
Hey GRT62 What is the measurements from the rotors to birdcages? I'm assuming you are measuring for a 34/35 rear end?