Anyone have any tips on how to keep the left front down and keeping the whole front end down on the car. 3 wheelin looks cool but it's not the fast way around.
Tether the left front?
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Anyone have any tips on how to keep the left front down and keeping the whole front end down on the car. 3 wheelin looks cool but it's not the fast way around.
Tether the left front?
It's usually more in the rr. Load numbers bar split ride height etc.....
That is my generic answer for your generic question and a tether may help but that's not why we run them. Think about this if it's lifting the wheel off the ground without one why wouldn't it with one
Because the extra weight keeps the car down. As the cars cg gets higher, it's easier to overcome the unsprung weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jking24
In all honesty, JKing is right. There are a lot of factors. Most of the answer is in the RF and RR.
That's why i said it could help but in my experience a tether alone will not fix this condition. It is typically a bandaid approach for this particular condition. Don't get me wrong a tether is a great tunning tool and we run them on everything now old or new black or blue lol. I was merely making the point that it alone probably won't fix it. Some specifics about the situation car year and make shocks spring's etc etc.... would really help to get the op heading in the right directionQuote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
2008 Masters, S7 front. 425RF 500LF 250RR 200LR.
Im not a mastersbilt guy but that's alot of rf spring for this day and age
Yah. I haven't run it since switching over to the S7 front. Anything less than that on the RF and I was dragging the frame.
We ran a 325# with bump on a 2010 masters with s7.
Thanks guys. I've got a 375 I'll try of the RF. I'll put a bump in there too. Maybe a 300 on the RR to keep the LF down a bit?
We haven't run a Masters car in many years. But generically, if your running baseline 4 link locations/lengths, be sure your not running excessive LR droop, or maximum panhard bar angle. Make sure your RR ride height is correct and not low. Softening the RF spring should help, but arbitrarily adding a bump stop without checking compressed load could introduce some uncomfortable entry/apex handling... sudden push if too much compressed load. Verify your in normal to conservative range on LR droop/Panhard height. Then verify RR ride height and RR lower link angle (minimum level , up to 2* uphill to front ) at correct ride height. If you need to make any adjustments to the above mentioned, try it with A 375 RF, no bump stop. HTH
More static load on the RR (ride height) and adequate upper bar angle will serve you well over a big ole RR spring. Getting the rf down at the end of the straight will help too.
Two purple 1" roller skate wheels, 3" from touching the shock body at ride height, should be pretty safe.
Great advice guys. Thank You!