When we ran dwarf cars there were adjusters on the control arms so you could adjust without taking the arm off and turning the heim. Do they make these for late models?
Printable View
When we ran dwarf cars there were adjusters on the control arms so you could adjust without taking the arm off and turning the heim. Do they make these for late models?
Yes. Most all suppliers carry these.
My MasterSbilt has an adjuster on the RF lower (for caster), but not the LF.
They are called a turnbuckle. You will also need a female rod end.
http://www.portcityracing.com/search?Keyword=turnbuckle
Give Ronnie Warman a call at WRP Racing Products 325-655-0700
The adjuster for caster on the RF of a one-piece lower is a joke. That is a rigid structure so there is no way you can shorten one side to provide caster without putting into a bind which is exactly what it does.
Adjust caster with slotted uppers and you'll be better off. This also will help maintain wheelbases/lead that was built into the car. JMO.
matt49 is right have seen these on guys car and also seen two totaled because of them, car makes a abrupt right into the wall. grt uses adjustable upper control arms they work great and can be repaired if you wreck
Matt49 I should have been more clear. I am looking to extend the bottom control arm 1" to move rf out. The chassis is a 2013 Rayburn and with the front end set up there is no way to add another mounting point. Rayburn does make a longer arm but I am looking for a way to use the one I have. Also there are no slots on the uppers they use heim joints
If you lengthen the main tube, you'd also need to lengthen the "strut rod" portion. If done, the end width of the two would be too much, which would require either bending the strut rod portion or living with a severe bind, as Matt49 was referring to. In the end, nothing beats the proper part (i.e. - The correct length control arm). Also, the slots on the upper control arm would be on the main shaft, so the entire arm can be moved forward or back.
I would think you could put the adjusters on both tubes. Then you could keep the main tube perp. to the framerail. That would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a new lower, but only do it if the geometry could br kept the same....IMO
if your trying the wide rf setup, I would get the proper lower arm and not hack up what ya have you may want to go back if you don't like the feel.
Thanks for all the info. I will call CJ on Monday and order another arm. I don't plan on hacking any parts was just wondering where to get the adjusters to extend both sides 1".
That is what I would recomend also. PPM makes great stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by rakracing