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Last year our rules said we had to run.an oem transmission now this year we can run a bert brinn falcon or racegator....I've never heard of s racegator are they as good as a bert or brinn and is it worth the money to upgrade from a direct drive power glide thanks
Go Falcon.
Skip everything else and go straight to a Brinn. The Racegator is a cheap imitation from the ones I have looked at.
SPark
i agree w/ the brinn over bert and falcon. No experience w/ a racegator and havent heard much on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by LM14
Brinn gets my vote. I know of some people running the Racegator but don't know how good they are compared to a Brinn, Bert, Falcon.
So it is definitely an advantage running an after market transmission...is it enough to justify the cost and why do most of u choose brinn over the others
The advantage is losing the rotating weight of the clutch. Brinn is by far the best of the bunch, it shifts much easier and lasts longer between rebuilds. I bought mine used for $700 with a fresh rebuild. Also the Brinn is the same length as a Saginaw so you won't have to get a longer drive shaft like you will with a Bert.
Now if u were to go out and buy a brinn would u need besides a bell housing
agree 100 percent and the racegator hasn't been around long enough to now if it's going to last more than a couple of seasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by LM14
you'll need a coupler and a 153 toothflex plate.
Do u need a special clutch or something i know nothing about after market transmissions
I favor the Brinn over the Falcon. The Falcon uses an intermediate shaft between the coupler and the transmission. The Brinn does not.
The clutch is internal. No need for another. You will, however, need a master cylinder and clutch pedal to operate it.
So i need a hydraulic clutch and what kind of coupler do i need like what should i look up
Brinn makes a coupler for thier trannies. Don't use the aluminum one. Get a steel one. They last forever. Use the flexplate you already have. You will need longer, grade 8 bolts for the coupler.
i have aluminum couplers that are several years old. The steel ones tend to beat up the splines a bit.
To hook one up is really simple. You bolt the drive hub to the crank hub with a standard automatic tranny flex plate sandwiched between the hub and crank. You bolt on your bellhousing then the tranny input shaft slides into the splines on the coupler. You hook your clutch pedal 3/4" master cylinder to the built in hydraulic system in the Brinn. Braided flex line works fine. You use a 2 lever shifter. One lever is reverse, the other is lo/hi. Bleed it like a brake caliper and you're ready to go.
Drop it in lo, start to rev the engine a bit and push the pedal in to make the car move. Once it gets up to speed to roll on it's own, you get off the gas and pull it back into hi. You are now direct drive. With a Brinn, that means nothing else is rotating weight other than the main shaft thru the tranny. Brinn is the easiest to shift of the bunch. Takes some getting use to.
SPark
Love my Bert.
Any reason why one should not go with a second generation Bert (non ball bearing to avoid safety argument) since this tranny does not spin the other gears when in high gear? Moving into Crates so I'm trying to understand all this and get honest opinions/ one's experiences. Prices seem to be within reason but maybe I'm missing something.
I love my Brinn! So smooth! The falcon I had always made a grinding sound going into gear and needed rebuilds frequently.