How to move the LIFT Bar properly

We want to move the Lift bar toward the drivers side where the 5th coil shock mounts. We initially made a bracket the clamps onto the original lift bar frame tubing and come out the 3 inches we were moving it. So, the 5th coil isnt mounted directly inline on the frame any more. My question, has anyone done this, because im having some concerns that because im not inline with the lift bar frame tubing anymore it might not be working the way i think it is. Do i need to do something different than just my 3 inch extension off that tubing? The rear-end mounts are staying the same, i just wanted to try and move the location of there the 5th coil mounts to the frame. Any ideas, or experience

I'm sure it's my sleep deprivation, but I can't exactly picture what your talking about.?! You moved the fifth coil from right to left in the chassis 3"? I'm surprised that you had that much room to work with based on clearing the driveshaft. Is the fifth coil still relatively straight up and down in the chassis? If you could post a picture it might help.

Why do you want to move it?

I'm also having trouble understanding how it isn't going to hit the drive shaft if you move it over that far.

Not totaly getting what you are saying. First you have to stay clear of the driveshaft and second the more you point the lift arm right or left the more it takes it's weight from that side of the car.

If im understanding correctly u r just moving shock mount to the left 3 inches correct? If so u said u made a mount off of the original bar with a extension on it if so ur still lifting off the same point as u were before

DEK, that is what I was thinking after making the adjustment. I also could be loosing leverage because it's not inline with the original frame mount any more. I was trying to change the leverage being applied to the lift bar. It's been raced this way with no noticeable differences. And after rethinking I don't think I accomplished what I was trying to do correctly.

The lift bar is absorbing torque at the 5th coil spring. The lift bar doesn't know the angle of the spring of what it's attached to. It only feels a resistance to torque which is determined by the spring rate and it's mounting location relative to the source of the torque.
If there's enough torque and enough spring rate to create actual lift, then the location of the upper mount really starts to matter.
There has been debate forever about how to brace the lift bar yet there is still no consensus on the best way to do it. If there was a proven BEST way to do it, that's the way everybody would do it...but they don't so...

if you want to see a dramatic difference move the lift bar to the left side of the rear end.
You will have to make it cross over driveshaft, but it will plant the lr hard.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt

if you want to see a dramatic difference move the lift bar to the left side of the rear end

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On what chassis is this even possible?

any, I edited post, but you were to quick on reply. :)

I'm listening... Any pictures of this type of setup?

I don't have any photos of it.
a friend of mine done it on a mod,
I drove the car with lift bar in standard location, and I told him it was driving too hard off the RR. he builds a lot of parts, so I told him to try and mount the lift bar on the left side bell, and he did it.
He make it out of round tube, and it came off the rear end, and it went over the top of driveshaft at an angle, and to the standard 5th/6th coil mounting locations.
He had to build it out of pretty thick material.

Car had a considerable noticeable difference in forward traction.

PRE chassis (Gary Sigman) used to do this back in the early 80's
he used to use touque arms mounted on the left side of the QC bell mounted just above the driveshaft

I have a good friend, who is an excellent fabricator, made a pullbar mount off of the LR axle tube on a Barry Wright.

It was easily adjusted left-to-right and the car always had plenty of drive (as you can imagine).

I believe GRT used to make a liftbar that utilized the same spring location but mounted on the left side of the rearend. It's been my understanding that the effect of the 5th coil on the rearend (left to right) was actually determined by running a straight line through the 5th coil location, perpindicular to the rear end...not where the lift bar mounted to the rear end. An example given was Moyer apparently running his 5th coil to the right on occasion, which felt like having RR in the car under acceleration. The pullbar example mentioned earlier most likely also involved relocating the "chassis" mount location as well (at least I hope), which would prove this.

I believe it may have something to do with which side of centerline of rear end you are on.
When rear end twists pinion up under acceleration, if on the left side of centerline, it would put more downward pressure on the left tire. likewise it being on the right side of center, would plant RR more. (in theory)

The GRT lift bar had 4 mounting points: The 2 studs on the right side bell that are normally used and the 2 adjacent studs on the left side bell. Of course it did not use a support bar off of the axle tube or the frame rail, since it was mounted in 4 locations. I thought it seemed like a descent idea, but never saw or heard of anybody using one. It used to be on their "new products" page, but I don't see it now. I think the description claimed that it "loaded both rear tires equally."

Racefastnow: Your theory is correct, doing what you did will pick up on the chassis more left of center but you have a problem: Due to many of the cars having a thin piece of square or round tube there, you going to get into some flex out of the bar resulting in a false reading. You put leverage on the tube to flex and basically soften the spring rate of the 5th coil, so you changed more then one thing messing up your results. No how much is going to depend on how much that bar is twisting and changing the effective spring rate of the 5th coil. You just went about it the wrong way. 1" on way or the other is noticeable to most good drivers but any driver should notice a 2" change for sure. Now it's not night and day difference but can be felts easily in back to back testing. Good luck

nice, can't do paragraphs. what the hell, now I remember why I quit coming here