Has anyone had any success with the new GRT with the new front end? Had it for a year and have had no luck with setup. I have thown everything at it and nothing seems to fix the car.
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Has anyone had any success with the new GRT with the new front end? Had it for a year and have had no luck with setup. I have thown everything at it and nothing seems to fix the car.
we have one to same way junk
I am ready to park it and start over. The car will not follow any logic on setup and have never had very good forward or sidebite. Junk is the right word. What problem are you having. I cannot get into the corner and make it work.
I have had two friends with them both have went other directions 1 bought a victory circle and the other went back to an older grt chassis hell even Terry Phillips and Jeremy Payne have stopped racing their grt late models and went modified racing
I think I am going to go the rocket route, but I am done with this heap, car is just junk and nothing will change that.
I have 1 that is real fast. Won a few races this yr with it. If you call joe he'll dial ya in. A baseline setup should get you in the ballpark.
Would a 175 LR and 250 RR or a 175 LR and 175/150 get you more forward/sidebite?
All things being equal.
Took this off their website..............
LATE MODEL SET-UP SHEET \ BASIC SET-UP
RIDE HEIGHTS:
LF: 3" Between top of lower control arm and bottom of frame
RF: 3" Between top of lower control arm and bottom of frame
LR: Set with the wedge
RR: 4-1/4" Between the top of lower frame rail and bottom of axle tube
( Newer cars that have dropped down underslung bar )
3"( Older cars with up sloping underslung bar )
SPRINGS:
LF: 500 lb. RF: 400 lb. LR: 275 lb. RR: 225 lb.
SHOCKS:
LF: 75 RF: 76 LR: 94 RR: 94
FRONT END ALIGNMENT:
Caster: LF: 2+ RF: 5+
Camber: LF: 1 3/4+ RF: 2-
Toe Out: 1/8" to 1/4"
TORQUE ARM SETTINGS:
73 Shock; 300 or 350 lb. Spring; 3" travel; preload 1/4" and check travel.
NOTE: 38" range usually performs best
REAR SUSPENSION:
* Four bars should be run in the third hole up on the top bars and left lower should be in the upper hole and right lower should be in the lower hole.
* Raise right upper bar up to help a push condition.
NOTE: Raising bars up usually promotes forward bite initially but will unhook car mid-straight away.
* Set cars w/75 to 100 lbs. left rear on birdcage, clamp bracket optional for tight stop and go tracks.
NOTE: LR varies according to track variations.
NOTE: Birdcages usually keeps the car hooked longer
RECOMMENDED STARTING PERCENTAGES:
Left: 53% Rear: 53% Cross: 51%
NOTE: This is car w/15 gallons of fuel.
NOTE: Scale the car without the driver.
FOUR BAR LENGTHS FROM CENTER TO CENTER:
Left Upper: 17"
Right Upper: 17-1/2"
Left Lower: 15"
Right Lower: 15-1/2"
Panard bar should be 7 1/2 from bottom of frame rail to center line of bracket and third hole down on pinon. Center to center is 18 3/4". 18 3/4" on dry slick track.
NOTE: Lower panard bar on pinion for more side bite
COMMON SET-UP PROBLEMS:
* Car tight: Soften front and stiffen rear
* Car loose: Stiffen front and soften rear
NOTE: LR clamp bracket usually corrects a loose condition and requires a 25-lb. stiffer spring.
* Shock rates are important in tuning a car and softer shocks will improve lap times on a smooth slick track.
* Lap times improved by keeping car straight and using a smooth throttle application.
* All these set-ups can only be justified wth proper maintenance and checking all suspension components on a regular basis.
http://www.thedirtforum.com/grtgenlate.htm
LATE MODEL SET-UP SHEET \ 2000 DRY SLICK SET OPTION
RIDE HEIGHTS:
LF: 3" Between top of lower control arm and bottom of frame
RF: 3" Between top of lower control arm and bottom of frame
LR: Set with the wedge
RR: 4-1/4" Between the top of lower frame rail and bottom of axle tube
( Newer cars that have dropped down underslung bar )
3" ( Older cars with up sloping underslung bar )
SPRINGS:
LF: 500 lb. RF: 400 lb. LR: 275 lb. RR: 225 lb.
Torque Arm: 350 lb.
Sixth Coil: 400 lb.
SHOCKS:
LF: 75 RF: 76 LR: 94 RR: 94
Torque Arm: 73
( 1 ) 90/10 to right
BITE:
150 lb. to 200 lb. LR bite
CHANGES TO HELP PERFORMANCE:
* Car too loose on entry and tight when you pick up the throttle go to a pair of 250's on the rear.
* Smooth flatter tracks go to 350 lb. spring on the RF
PANHARD BARS:
Standard Long J-Bar 24-1/2" to 24-3/4"
* Bottom hole on pinion, and 9-1/2" to bottom of bracket on frame side.
* This position and panard bar style is good in most track conditions, especially when track has any traction, rubbered down or tacky
Straight Left Side Panard Bar 17-1/4" to 17-1/2"
* Second hole on pinion from bottom, and 8" from bottom of frame to bottom of bracket
* This bar works well on smoother, flat, slick track conditions. Creates side bite and forward bite.
* This bar also will cause car to be more eratic and make it difficult, do not use when there is traction in race track.
New Seven Rod ( Right Rear 6th Coil in 90/10 Position )
* Use only when there is a loose condition on entry, when all other set-ups don't cure loose entry problems. Shock is a 70/10 small body with a 550 spring when setting car up with 7 rod installed. Put shock in top hole on the rear end bracket. Make sure car is at ride height and set spring with no preload ( run adjuster cone up till it touches spring ).
* This set-up works well on most momentum banked tracks
RUNNING SPRING BEHIND ON LEFT REAR:
Run spring behind axle on all track conditions, except on rubber down or extremely tacky tracks.
DOUBLE SHOCK ON LEFT REAR:
We do not do this but some people like this option. This set-up has the real shock on the front side of axle, and no valve shock and spring behind. This setp up will calm down movement of the car. This is not a cure for the erractic movements, but will tone it down.
http://www.thedirtforum.com/grtdrylate.htm
Am not sure I understand your four bar link locations. If I am not rolling over hard on the right front a stiffer spring would make it worse, I think?
3 holes up from bottom and lower all the way up they would (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) near be touching, We have the newer car that has 9 upper holes and I believe 5 or 6 on the lower.
My left is at 8 up which is about 45%, my LL is three up and lower it one for dry slick.
The right side is RT 5 holes up and the RL is 3 holes up which is level. Dry slick we will drop the RL one hole and maybe raise RT one hole.
I am not running and different bar lengths 17" and 15" was thinking of going a 1/4 shorter on the right bars could try 1/2 what will that do to corner entry/exit?
Thanks
8th hole up on left side and only 45 degrees? Sounds like your drop isn't correct. I've got 47 degrees being in the 7th hole. Drop should be 17 3/4 on the LR
I will check that tonight, what about spring combo's or is that a secret? 350/400 seems to stiff on the RF, but I am close to giving up so I will listen to anyones ideas.
http://www.teamgrt.com/2010_LATE_MOD...ETUP_SHEET.pdf
2010 LATE MODEL STANDARD CAR SETUP SHEET
Info for 2010, 2009, & 2008 Basic Chassis Models:
RIDE HEIGHTS (CHASSIS #2939 and after, Black Spindles)
LF: 3 1/4 Top of Lower Control Arm (16 5/8) & Bottom of Frame
RF: 3 1/4" Top of Lower Control Arm (18 1/8) & Bottom of Frame
LR: Will be set with the amount of bite
RR: 12 1/2 Bottom of Top Frame to Top of Rear End Axle Tube (Over rail)
FRONT END ALLIGNMENT
CASTER: CAMBER:
LF: 2+ LF: 3+
RF: 4+ RF: 4 -
UPPER A-ARM LENGTHS:
LF: 10 1/2
RF: 8 1/4"
TIE ROD LENGTHS:
LF: 16 1/2"
RF: Determined when setting toe
*Toe needs to be 1/2" for long tracks and 3/4" for short tracks with tight corners.
*Requires clevis style rack to set bump. Contact GRT for bump specs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Info for 2007 and previous year models:
RIDE HEIGHTS (CHASSIS #2938 and before, Standard Front End, Black Spindles)
LF: 3 Top of Lower Control Arm & Bottom of Frame (2.5) on cars with gray spindles)
RF: 3" Top of Lower Control Arm & Bottom of Frame (2.75) on cars with gray spindles)
LR: Will be set with the amount of bite
RR: 4.25 Top of lower under slung & Bottom of Axle Tubes
*3 on older cars with angled under slung bar
*12 1/2on over rail cars (Bottom of Frame to Top of Axle tube)
STANDARD SPRINGS
LF: 550 RF: 350
LR Behind: 250 RR: 225
* Soften right front spring as low as 300 pounds on smooth, slick tracks and soften in 25 pound increments.
SHOCKS SLICK TRACKS
LF: 75 RF: 75 LF: 5-3 RF: 3-5
LR: 6-2 GAS (9-3 STD) RR: 94 LR: 8-2 RR: 3-4
*Important shock note: Double adjustable canister shocks are recommended for optimum tuning in all track
conditions.
BITE
150 LBS LEFT SIDE 52.5% REAR 55%
*Based on 20 gallons of fuel and a 200 pound driver.
TORQUE ARM
73-6 Shock with 325 pound spring
Approximately 3 travel on 36 center to center
REAR END LEAD
Right rear back 1/4 to 3/8
FRONT END ALIGNMENT:
CASTER: CAMBER:
LF: 1.5+ LF: 2.5+
RF: 3+ RF: 3.5-
Toe: 1/4 to 1/2 out
NEW STYLE PANHARD BAR BRACKET
Bottom of Frame to Bottom of Bracket (8 3/8)
3rd Notch up on chassis, 2nd notch up on pinion
Panhard bar: 19 1/4 center to center
4-BARS (STANDARD)
Left Lower: 3rd Hole up (6 to 7 Degrees)
Left Upper: 7th Hole up (23 to 25 Degrees)
Right Lower: 4th Hole up (Level)
Right Upper: 5th Hole up (18 to 20 Degrees)
*IMPORTANT 4-Bar Note:
Lower RR bottom rod to tighten up on entry
Raise RR top rod to help car turn
ADDITIONAL NOTES OF INTEREST:
If car has too much drive, drop upper bar 1 hole and continue on alternating between top
bar and bottom bar 1 hole down at a time, until desired drive is obtained.
Indexing increases instant traction and turning capabilities, but does not maintain forward
traction as long. Smoother throttle application is a necessity when indexing.
Indexing is not recommended in most slick track applications.
The Limiter Chain is now used to prevent the rear end from traveling too much or being
too erratic. It is recommended that you run the chain at all times. This lets the LF
maintain maximum traction and keeps LR from traveling too far. The dummy shock takes
away traction and therefore should only be used in a traction situation. Top of rear end
tube to bottom of frame when chain is fully extended is 17 3/4
90/10 shock should not be used unless car is extremely loose on entry.
Use 73-6 or 73-7 on torque arm
90/10 shock reduces forward traction and transfer that promotes side bite
2010 LATE MODEL SIGNATURE SERIES SETUP SHEET
RIDE HEIGHTS: FRONT END ALIGNMENT:
LF: 2 7/8 CASTER: CAMBER:
RF: 2 7/8 LF: 1.5+ LF: 4+
RR: 12 1/2 RF: 3.0+ RF: 4 -
LR: Set with bite
UPPER A-ARM LENGTHS:
LOWER: UPPER:
LF: 17 5/8 LF: 12 1/4"
RF: 19 1/8" RF: 8 1/2"
TIE ROD LENGTHS:
LF: 17 1/2
RF: Set with toe
BUMP STEER SETTINGS:
LF: Tie rods go down 7/10th degree more than lower a-arm
RF: Tie rods go down 4/10th degree more than lower a-arm
UPPER A-FRAME LOCATION:
LF: 4 5/8 from top of frame to center location of shaft
RF: 5 5/8 from top of frame to center location of shaft
PANHARD BAR FRAME MOUNT:
8 3/8 from bottom of frame to bottom of bracket (flat part in front)
*Start 4th notch up on frame
*Start 2nd notch up on pinion
Panhard bar length 21 1/4" center to center
4 BARS:
TOP: 17] center to center
BOTTOM: 15 center to center
TORQUE ARM :
Start 4th hole from back
STANDARD SPRINGS
LF: 550 x 10 RF: 350 x 10
LR: 225 x 14 RR: 225 x 12
Torque Arm: 325 x 10
We run LU at 6 holes up to start if it goes away, end up at +8. LL at 3 up, will drop to +2 or bottom when slick..RU at +5 and RL +3 225 LR 225 or 200 RR 400 or 375 RF spring...
I have never been above 350 on the rf. Know a guy that wins races with 325 and 300 on rf on these cars. Me, dual stage rf is only way to go!
I have a duel stage for the RF but still had all the handleing problems so thought I would go back to something I new for sure. Like getting back to basics.
this week we are running more left then rear by a little bit and 200 across the back, 550 LF and 325 RF. 60 lb of bite and hope for the best.