Is it worth the money or is it a waste of time
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Is it worth the money or is it a waste of time
Not with a stock crank no. Maybe a forged or billet crank but then your really getting into some money there. I would say if your already askin if it's worth the money then it's more than you want to spend.
just go with a set of ford escort rods if you want a light rod engine.also these can work very well if you use the 2.3 stock crank or if you want a lighter crank also use a 1.9l escort crank.also you MUST use arp rod bolts these little engines built like this is worlds worst to brake a rod bolt.and arp is just alott better bolt
LeeBoy...... you do not indicate the degree of proposed modification of your 2.3 engine. But let's assume it'll be a full-tilt boogie race engine with a stout crank and close to 8800 rpm at the top end. A 1.999" diameter rod-journal on the crank would allow the use of a good, small-journal Chev V-8 rod, ordered with the proper big-end width, and would 'live' (bearing speed considerations) @ the above rpm & a bit beyond. But the big mistake many of us have made, & many today still make? Whether a cap-screw rod-bolt or thru-bolt with a nut, do NOT use a torque value to tighten/clamp the rod. Use the recommended bolt-stretch value & note the torque value to get that stretch value. Spend $55 and purchase a decent rod-bolt stretch-gauge from JEG's catalog. ARP will tell you, if you use their cap-screw/bolt, to clamp the rod up in your bench vice & 'cycle' their rod bolts @ least (3) times in order to 'burnish' the threads well for an accurate/proper stretch/torque value. For myself, I don't give a rip what the manufacturer recommends for lubrication on the cap-screw/thru-bolt. I always use the ARP moly, in the small packets, to lubricate the threads and the underside of the nut/cap-screw head. Then, with the rod(s) in my bench vice, I 'sneak up' on the final stretch value by torque cycling the fasteners 3-5 times up to that stretch value. With the torque value noted for desired stretch. Then when the rods are installed in the engine, a stretch-gauge is not needed. Simply torque the rods to the value noted for proper stretch from the bench-vice cycling operation. And Crower(I use their Maxi-Lite rods), in no uncertain terms, advised me to NEVER bounce back & forth between rod fasteners. Stretch/torque the bolt in one single, smooth movement! Then go to the other fastener. PLUS...... do NOT use a 'clicker' torque-wrench on rod fasteners. My favorite? A Sears/Roebuck 75# BEAM torque wrench. I have (2) of them hanging on the wall. I had both brand new wrenches calibrated on one of the digital calibration machines, and both were within 1#-2# of torque on the beam indicator. Since doing all the above, I've not hurt/broken a rod/bolt in a race engine! -Dave-
well i'm going to be running 3/8 mile dirt oval wanting turn between 8500-9000 rpm,
also has any body ever heard of taking a 2.5 crank and running it with honda rods and making 2650cc is it a reliable set or should i go with a 2.3 crank with honda rods?
If you want to turn that many RPM's your probably better off w/ a 2.3 stroke crank rather than a 2.5
You can take a 2.5 to 8500 but I wouldn't recommend any more than that.
If you are wanting to build a nice 9000-9500 RPM motor then a good combo IMO
Forged 2.3 crank - Raceeng
Custom Billet 5.7 Rods Crower - Raceeng
Custom CP ultra-light pistons - Raceeng
Fully ported BoPort ARCA head
Custom exhaust
Schneider Custom Cam and valve train.
This combo can produce 300 HP easy.
Strap the sucker and get a dang good oiling system.
the big question is...is your cam going to make any power at those rpm's?
personally id only run a dry sump at those rpms
what has to be done to run this setup and does it make good power
just go with a set of ford escort rods if you want a light rod engine.also these can work very well if you use the 2.3 stock crank or if you want a lighter crank also use a 1.9l escort crank.also you MUST use arp rod bolts these little engines built like this is worlds worst to brake a rod bolt.and arp is just alott better bolt
You can make power easily at this RPM you just have to have a custom cam. You would run something very similar to what the guys run w/ midgets. Def wouldn't run this RPM w/ a wet sump system but if you had to a custom 9 quart pan would probably work.Quote:
Originally Posted by car62
what do u have to do to the 2.3 bolck or to the 1.9 crank and rods? doesnt that destroke the engine?
so does running that setup let u run higher rpms? or just rev faster?
We have had good luck with johnson machine 5.9 rod motor with there oil pan turn it 8900rpm won many features with this bottom end with a well built head.