Any help with soft rf spring and how to gain back drive
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Any help with soft rf spring and how to gain back drive
Car was great with 50lb. heavier springQuote:
Originally Posted by Dirtmod13
Then why not put the heavier spring back in it?
Cuz that is what the big chassis mnfgr's are saying for new setups. Didn't do much. Had a very dry track and wondering how the super low rate rf can help drive. I get it that it helps front dive into corner and rotating it down and lifting left rear up to make it easier to get on the bars. But overall was not tighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroracing
How low did you go? On a bump or stack or just spring?
A dual stage could get the turn in plus the traction leaving I believe.
If it was just as good in and better off then just stick with it chassis mnfers setups r a starting point and adjust from there. U dont have to run that just cause josh richards runs a 275 rf or jd running a duall stage rf u have to run what u like causr lets face it most of us dobt drive like jd or josh.
If it was just as good in and better off then just stick with it chassis mnfers setups r a starting point and adjust from there. U dont have to run that just cause josh richards runs a 275 rf or jd running a duall stage rf u have to run what u like causr lets face it most of us dobt drive like jd or josh.
may be dek, BUT, if you don't try and keep up, you fall behind. You cant just throw a soft spring on without understanding the whole picture. sounds to me like dirtmod just put a soft spring on without the rest of the ingredients and lost left rear drive.
We much prefer a stack.
Never tried the soft RF with rubbers, but wouldn't mind looking into it.
I wasn't meaning to not try to get faster ford I was just meaning that because it works for this guy's doesn't mean it'll work for him . Yes I totally agree u just can't trow a soft right front and expect it to be a cure all it is like u said the big picture of everything working together
just remember every action has a reaction. Sometimes its important to always return to the basics
When I was running a soft rf, I also had to run a softer rr to keep it from picking the lr off the ground and loosing the drive.
That's kind of what I was thinking. Couple pics show rf way down. Could be adding more rr wheel weight due to it. What was the softer rr rate you used? Like 25 lbs less or?Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtracerl77
To know how to fix a problem, we must first understand what the problem is.
Changing to a softer RF hurts forward bite off of the corner because it lowers dynamic wedge. So by changing to a softer RF spring and changing nothing else, you've tipped the scales in the direction of the RR tire (dynamically, not on the scales in the shop) which will cause the RR to start driving harder than it used to and the LR will not drive as hard as it used to. This is a loss of forward bite because the car wants to continue turning when you get on the gas (driving off the RR) rather than straighten back out (driving off the LR).
So if the problem is that we've lost dynamic wedge, then the obvious solution is to make another change that will give us back the dynamic wedge we lost. There are many ways to do that and some have negative side affects on other parts of the corner. So then you'll have to potentially make another adjustment to account for that.
As previously stated, the soft RF setup isn't as simple as putting a softer RF spring on. There may be 4 or 5 other changes you need to make to get that car balanced again.
The true benefit to the super soft RF deal is car attitude for aero downforce. This cannot be overstated so it can certainly be worth dialing in a setup like this.
Yes you can put a 400 on the RF and the car will drive off the corner great but your nose will be 10 inches off the ground and the LR decking won't be up in the air. These things provide grip and grip provides speed.
What suggestions would you make to get car back on left rear with a soft ref?
I've tried soft rf before but cross member seems to hit on entry. Even with crossmember being raised. How do you fix that problem?
in my opinion, the bump stop is the best, with every thing set right, on a very smooth track , which we rarely have any more, but for me, I like the two stage set up best. a little heavier, but works best on a rougher track. When I get back to it, im going to try the bump spring set up. I think it is lighter and might provide the same result as the rubber but would be better in the rough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kromulous
its more than just the cross member,on most new designs , the right frame rail is raised and the strut rods are running towards the back , there is a crutch some with older chassis are using, they run a different spindle with the spindle closer to lower ball joint, which raises chassis, I personally don't like this, but I have seen it work........Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwestExpress