Ackerman

How much ackerman should I be running? I checked mine this afternoon and found that the car was toed in when counter steering. Probably the reason we have been fighting a loose on exit problem. I adjusted the tie rod lengths and now have 3/8 toe out with wheel straight. 7/8 with wheels left. 0 toe with wheels right. We are running the mastersbilt "crate" spindles, which to my understanding cause the left front to turn quicker for better corner entry on the throttle. Should I be aiming for 0 ackerman or give it a shot where it is now?

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Originally Posted by SmithGT

How much ackerman should I be running? I checked mine this afternoon and found that the car was toed in when counter steering. Probably the reason we have been fighting a loose on exit problem. I adjusted the tie rod lengths and now have 3/8 toe out with wheel straight. 7/8 with wheels left. 0 toe with wheels right. We are running the mastersbilt "crate" spindles, which to my understanding cause the left front to turn quicker for better corner entry on the throttle. Should I be aiming for 0 ackerman or give it a shot where it is now?

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test it there and them tweak it to your liking, its a great tool to know and have in your tool box

great advice grt , there is a time when ackerman is still useful , we use controlled bump steer instead of ackerman now days , especially with the car over on the right front from start to finish through the turn ......

First thing I'd want to know is was these measurements with the car static or dynamic (as mentioned) with the bumpsteer added into the equation?

As said it's a package deal, but why manufacturers still use a shorter left steering arm then right is still beyond me and a huge pet peeve of mine. When and how much are we ever turning left?????

Static. Bumpsteer hasn't been checked.

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Originally Posted by SmithGT

Static. Bumpsteer hasn't been checked.

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I would recheck it in dynamic state, or least close buy removing the RF coil over and set down to where it travels and jack the LR up and get the LF between ride hieght and 1" up and check it there and see what you have.

It could be bumping out a ton with bumpsteer or have none, so start there.

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Originally Posted by billetbirdcage

First thing I'd want to know is was these measurements with the car static or dynamic (as mentioned) with the bumpsteer added into the equation?

As said it's a package deal, but why manufacturers still use a shorter left steering arm then right is still beyond me and a huge pet peeve of mine. When and how much are we ever turning left?????

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as far as i know, mastersbilt has only provided a LONGER left front steering arm in the standard genx spindles. mastersbilt "crate" spindles have even steering arms left and right. the only measurable difference between standard and crate mastersbilt spindles is the "nub" or the distance between the spindle hub itself to the lower ball joint as well as a slight overall height difference in the spindle. loose-off in a genx car isn't an issue with the front-end but it's a great place to start!

I would always check Ackerman in a dynamic ride height state. I always like to see 0 gain (no toe change) on counter steer and 1" or better gain on left turn. If you are turning left the car is too tight.

Adding Ackerman to the left front will increase slip angle in the left front and help turn a tight car. The zero gain in counter steer takes scrub out of the car and helps forward traction and straight speed.

Ackerman and camber are the two biggest areas you can tune in your front end to put in steering traction.

we dont run any ackerman any more , and we do check our controlled bump out on rt front in its dynamic state , 1 inch of gain through ackerman seems like a lot to me though , i would think it would be hard to handle on anything but a super smooth track .......jmo....