Speedway Motors Qualities

Well needless to say. Wife hit me with a divorce. Heck more time to race now LOL...
Anyway Blew my old motor and need to rebuild.
Limited modified 2 bbl rochester 10.0 -1 comp limit flat top. Stock valve train.
7000 rpm limit. Crank 47lb min weight.

Is the SPEEDWAY Cranks and rods any good or go with SCAT ?
Hypo pistons or forged pistons ?

Money is tight being lawyer is getting alot and the wife seems to get the rest :)
Just seems the speedway stuff is cheaper like their cams and stuff. JUST really want to know if their quality is any good ?
My machinist is rec: forged pistons but what do you think ?

Not a big fan of cast cranks. 4340 callies compstar will normally last for up to 3 750 lap seasons if properly balanced and installed. Might cost 3 times more but you will feel much more secure with it and won't be firing up a grenade every week. Nice h beams with a decent set of forged pistons to finish her off.

I would go with Scat I-beams and lightweight forged pistons. You'll have more of a "cushion" than with Hyper pistons and for a 10.0-1 , 7,000 rpm engine the Scat I-beams are more than enough.

cast will twist more than a forged without snappin....im gonna try them speedway I-beams in my next motor,...got stock hi nickle in motor i got now...thay all a time bomb in my mind...

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Originally Posted by Living_Truth

We've run two separate 11:1 motors using GM nodular cranks, one with Eagle and one with Scat 5.7 I-beam rods and Hyreu pistons. Both motors were still running at the end of 3 seasons (20+ races, 20 lap features) each, turning 7200-7400 every night.

The only difference might be that you would be running alcohol in a mod?

:)

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You can get away with it in certain situations depending on the amount of torque you will end up with and how much weight the car weighs. There are many variables that would allow a cast crank and hyper pistons to survive that amount of time. Once you get over 425 ftlbs of torque I wouldn't expect a cast crank to survive very long. The biggest issue with hyper pistons is they tend to explode when they fail.

10-1..stock valve train..2bbl...lightweight if you can afford..just about anything will work

Check your PM's. I sent you a link.

The engine that just went was a hyper piston engine turning 7500 rpm
The piston just blew apart at the wrist pin and took everything out.
it went a half season though before just with only 6800 rpm. over heated that engine though. so maybe some of the issue.

The cushion I was referring to when using the forged piston is in the amount of abuse they will take when the tune-up is off and running a little lean, getting hot or detonating. A hyper will fail a lot quicker in that situation. For $200-$300 more for the forged piston is cheap insurance for me.
The way I look at it is this, do I want to spend $1,000 more on a good shortblock or take the chance of blowing a cheap one, taking out the camshaft, block, heads, crank etc. and having to do it all over again. All of them will blow but sometimes you're asking for it by using parts made for the station wagon.
Remember you're racing not getting groceries.

I think this shows the diversity in racer's points of view. I know some guys who will tell you they have p/n's at autozone for a cast crank for $79 that will last for many seasons along w/ stock rods w/ arp bolts and hyper pistons w/ cheap cams that they like and z28 valve springs and they win on occassion and finish in the top 10 a lot. Then I know some people who have the best of everything from top to bottom and they win all the time and are always in the top 5 and such. The good thing I like around where I live is the IMCA style Souther Sport Mod is starting to come in big time and the rules the way they are written now are extremely affordable and the guy this seems as if it will bridge the gap between the two above w/ everyone wanting that special p/n and such and will take the $ out of the equation to some extent. The best part about these sport mods it seems is you can spend $20k on a complete race car and you can spend $4k on another and have equalling performing vehicles.

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Originally Posted by dirty white boy

cast will twist more than a forged without snappin....im gonna try them speedway I-beams in my next motor,...got stock hi nickle in motor i got now...thay all a time bomb in my mind...

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do have a set of forged TRW's in this motor,built it outta left overs an swap meet deals,its a repaired block,factory cast crank turned 20/20,re built factory high nickle rod with good bolts,speed way cam...in a 3000 lb SS car on late model tires,...when it ends up in a big poof of smoke,...collecting parts for more serious motor soon as funds allow

if your in a buget and want to race and have fun there is nothing wrong with a cast steel crank or a scat 9000 less than $200 5140 ibeam rods around $200 speedpro hyper pistons $265 speedway cams $69 and lifters from speedway$65 bearings and rings from speedway around$110 do your homework and put it together right it will last and you will have fun spending way less $1500 cranks and $600 pistons $600 rods no need in limited class just dumb and for people with more money than sense