Im a newbee to racing and while looking at new mod chassis I heard two different opinions ? One builder says he likes bump stops .....They do not ? ( meaning another chassis builder ) What does this mean ?
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Im a newbee to racing and while looking at new mod chassis I heard two different opinions ? One builder says he likes bump stops .....They do not ? ( meaning another chassis builder ) What does this mean ?
Personal feel. They both will work. The bump rubber allows you to run a softer spring. The bump stop adds spring rate as you start to compress it. The bad thing about bump stops is that they are very progressive in rate, and some get too stiff too quick. Advice for a using bump stop is, use the tallest, softest, Christmas tree style ones that are more linear in rate, and run a fair amount of shaft showing before you get on the bump stop. That way the car gets enough movement before the rate gets too stiff. If your car is good on no bump stops, your sweet spot is bigger. Bump stops, especially stiff ones are hit and miss. Don't use them on rough tracks other than to stop the travel at the very end, to keep it from bottoming hard ( metal to metal )
Thank you for making that easy t understand ... I have alot more questions but for some reason that one was first ....LOL Thanks again
some classes dont allow bump stops i believe. what sanction will you be running?
Im just helping a friend search info .... UMP mod rules
if your looking for a chassis, call Heavy Duty. He builds a fast car and his customer service is the BEST
We have picked a chassis builder hope this year will be better now that we have tech support ..... Another questions are shocks ? Do we buy 4 or 6 ? Ive heard rf & lr are the most often changed ? Thanks for any imput as were just looking for info ....
Is he the owner of Lightning Chassis? If not, what is his brand?
Yes heavy duty is Don owner of lightning chassis great cars and awesome tech always willing to help
We need a set of scales this year ..... What should we buy ....
Whats the most affordable way to have a 650 hp motor built .....
355 CID spec head motor.Angle mill the heads ,2925 intake, roller cam.3.5 stroke crank is easy to drive and not as hard on parts.You can use a stock block with splayed caps.If you are new to racing I would get a 355 with angle milled vortecs ,solid cam.Pro products intake. Use 1.6 exhaust valve' port the exhaust, leave the intake stock.
Can this kinda h/p be bolted together without have to go thur a engine builder & machine shop work ?
It depend on your skill level and the tools you have.The balancing, boring, decking,align bore,milling and valve job are machine shop work you will have to have done.As you go up in h/p, the tougher it gets.
What area are you from? I'm sure someone on here can suggest a good machine shop. Might be worth it if you don't have any engine building tools to get someone to assemble you a short block. As pointed out if you are new you don't need 650hp. Its easier to drive an under powered car. Checkout all the IMCA crate cars winning.
My buddy has a deal in the works now .... I was just looking to see what the options were .... Thanks for all the help .... This is a big learning curve ..
Another question ....Why do alot of racers build a new chassis each year ? Ive seen alot of rollers for sale only ran one season .... With the chassis being the same why build a new one ....
If you can afford to do it, you buy new and sell your used for a decent price. It ensures your stuff is new and fresh. Sure, the car is good for 3 years or so, but you have to do PMs and replace worn stuff. If you leave that to someone else, your stuff is always tip top.
What are the 3 most important things a new team/driver does wrong during the learning process of getting into mod racing ..... Maybe the most over looked too .... My buddy keeps telling me its way harder than it looks from the grandstands ....