Used late model

Research the chassis before you go and look at it. Talk to the chassis builder if possible so you know before had what's supposed to be on the car. Ask if the seller has the original manufacturer's set up sheets and if they convey. Ask the seller if the headers convey as they are generally specifically made for the chassis. Ask the seller what spare parts go with the car. Inspect the frame thoroughly. Look for indications that the car has been clipped, and then do a closer inspection for stress cracks in the frame. Remember that just because the car has been clipped doesn't disqualify the car, but you do need to ask who did the welding. If you find stress cracks, then make a mental note because they'll have to be repaired before you put the car on the track. Inspect the integrity of the fuel cell and the fittings on top of the fuel cell. Inspect the rear end and make sure the correct rear end is in the car. Ask if you can pull a rear wheel off. Inspect the rotors, brake calipers, brake floater, axle limiter, suspension mounts, shocks, J-Bar, and battery mount. Inspect the c-pit, safety harness, seat, shift levers, gauges, steering column, pedals, & ignition system. Ask if you can sit in the car and check the seat fitment. Ask if you can pull one of the front tires off. Inspect the spindles, upper and lower control arms, the frame horns, and front shocks. Pull the hood off and inspect the motor mounts, engine mid plate, plumbing, & wiring. Avoid wiring harnesses that look like a bird's nest. Avoid older steering columns (ie., 1.5" 20 spline one piece shafts) as the steering wheel quick disconnects are nearly impossible to find.