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I have seen where some people recomend to run stiff compression shock on lr such as bite shock or traction shock. doesn't softer on compression load spring more and add traction? Or is it just for a different type of setup where they are loosing traction through spring and just using trailing arm leverage for traction? Thanks
Yes, a bite shock is a high number rated on compression shock. It's only effective when the the suspension is in its downward travel off the corner. If you put a softer shock in the LR for instance. It would load the LR quickly but as the total travel ends you lose the load on that tire. A stiffer shock on the LR would keep the load longer during the transition. It only works as the rear end squats
The spring holds the load, the shock is just a timing device for the spring. If you want more load on a spring, a shock wont do that for you, it will only slow down or speed up the action. The lower trailing arm on the stock suspension is adding rear steer as the angle increases not leverage like a 4 bar mod.
Dave
you will also feel a bit of quick traction with it, when throttle is picked back up in corner, but it will more apt to run out quicker, and bust tires loose shortly after transition to straightaway.
on a metric coil type car it is great in the mud or heavy tracks to free u entry and free up your car all the way around
Thats been my experience with stiff compression lr shocks will loosen the car unless you are running a bar car which is a different story. As mentioned earlier shocks are a timing device softer shocks will load that corner of the car sooner than a stiffer shock.
Basically by adding enough compression, you are making the spring stiffer. Its just like adj the gas pressure on the lf of a late model to tune corner entry.
I always thought the bar cars used high compression low rebound lr shocks to get the car up on the bars quicker and to keep that corner from slamming down when coming into the corner not to necesarily increase the bite directly but gaining bite by the increased bar angle.
That is correct. When I'm on the bars my spring is flopping around loose. The upper bar is providing the angle to keep it there, but that is not how a stock "w" link suspension works, but go ahead everyone and put your high compression shock in there, only way to learn is to do it. Thats how I learned.Quote:
Originally Posted by dereksehi
Dave
Obviously, if you go too stiff on compression, you'll loosen your entry up too much. I haven't experimented on a stock suspension, as Im sure you cant use anything close to a lr dlm shock. Is that what you found out Racer96m?
Yes, I am too curious to hear this racer96m. I forgot this was for stock cars. For I have not really experimented with a stiff compression LR shock. Was wondering what to expect?
In compression the shock is working with the spring,In rebound the shock is trying to control the spring from slaming the tire back down.This is why a baseline package will have a 60r/ 30c front shock and a 40r/20c rear shock.For best control over bumps a shock will always need more rebound than compression.If you dyno a bilstein shock it will dyno what it is rated at.With a qa1 or afco shock if they are rated as a 5r/5c they will dyno with more rebound than compression (like a 6r/5c).If you have a true 4r/2c l/r and go to a 3 or 4 compression it could add some l/r drive.If you had a 4r/4c and went to a 6c that change could make you loose on entry and keep you loose all the way thru the corner.
The stock "W" link suspension was designed with one purpose in mind, keeping the rearend centered in the car under normal minimal suspension movement. When you try to race with it, the first problem is it will bind up. It wasnt designed for the drastic movement you see in racing. So thats the first thing you have to work on. Everyone wants to make it work like a 4 bar. It wont, it cant. The 4 bar works for traction because it takes the 2 bars on the birdcage to hold up the car. All the lower trailing arm on a stock "W" can do for you is roll steer. So shorten the left side compared to to right and it steers rear of car toward the wall, Shorten RT compared to left and it steers rear of car to the infield. So you put a bunch of angle in the left lower keeping the RR level and drive into the corner and yes its gona help loosen your entry because the rear is turning towards the wall, but when you need to get on the gas you probably dont need the rear steer, so do you really want to try and hold the LR at the angle longer? Or do you want it to square up and drive off the corner? Your not adding bite with the stiff shock, your holding the rear steer longer, thats why its loose. Just my .02
Dave