D55 RR Tire Sealing Over

We've been having trouble with our RR's sealing up during our 25 lap amains. No treatment done (they checked our lr last night with sniffer). It was brand new for the feature and I swear you could see your reflection off of it. Any suggestions how to keep it from happening? Should we run without the mud plug on the inside? Car was really fast and went from 8th to second, then wouldn't fire on the last 3 laps after a restart and possibly cost us the race. Or would going over the berm and spinning the tires kind of "grind them" on the track?

Sipe the hell out of them,under yellow scrub them the whole time should help out

I agree if don't keep the heat in a 55 they seal over in a hurry. Something else you can do to help with that is Grind them during the week, then roll on a coat of wd40 let it dry and roll another coat. This does nothing to soften the tire and a lot of people use wd40 to help seat the bead so noone ever thinks anything about the smell.

Since were a top runner our tires get sniffed inside and out at least once a weekend. That rules out the wd40 that we used to use. The tires are washed at 8am the following day and immediately ground with a normal grinder then with a nail grinder that sipes the tires like crazy.

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Originally Posted by Masters2010

We've been having trouble with our RR's sealing up during our 25 lap amains. No treatment done (they checked our lr last night with sniffer). It was brand new for the feature and I swear you could see your reflection off of it. Any suggestions how to keep it from happening? Should we run without the mud plug on the inside? Car was really fast and went from 8th to second, then wouldn't fire on the last 3 laps after a restart and possibly cost us the race. Or would going over the berm and spinning the tires kind of "grind them" on the track?

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Just before going out for the mains,wet a rag with racing fuel and scrub all around tire what this does is removes the film on the tire which will help the tire fire quicker and help keep it from resealing.

You can try running with a foam plug with a cover and that will help keep the heat in a little better.

get rid of the nail head grinder. get a foam 3m pad with the 36 grit sticky back sand paper buff the tires with it then sipe the tire with a regular tire siper with around 4-6 sipes evenly spaced across the block going from right to left on the tire, cutting the sipes around an 1/8in deep. and if your running the same tires all night then lightly buff the LR, RR, RF before the feature just to get to fresh rubber and take off any glaze that may already be there. if your running a faily hard tire on the fronts place 2-4 sipes per block around the tire and a couple sipes across the blocks to help get heat in the front tires, and you could even open your toe out up another 1/4in to help put heat in the front tires. and you may need to place a small groove around the rear tires and cut the blocks in half, use the narrowest blade you have and cut about half the tread depth if its a new tire. and also under caution work the car to keep heat in the tires. theres alot to the science to the tires but if they aint right then your prob lossing around a half sec a lap or more, so it makes all the work worth it to gain that speed and its about the cheapest thing you can do to gain speed all your out is your labor.
thanks,
4bangerhotrod

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Originally Posted by 4bangerhotrod

get rid of the nail head grinder. get a foam 3m pad with the 36 grit sticky back sand paper buff the tires with it then sipe the tire with a regular tire siper with around 4-6 sipes evenly spaced across the block going from right to left on the tire, cutting the sipes around an 1/8in deep. and if your running the same tires all night then lightly buff the LR, RR, RF before the feature just to get to fresh rubber and take off any glaze that may already be there. if your running a faily hard tire on the fronts place 2-4 sipes per block around the tire and a couple sipes across the blocks to help get heat in the front tires, and you could even open your toe out up another 1/4in to help put heat in the front tires. and you may need to place a small groove around the rear tires and cut the blocks in half, use the narrowest blade you have and cut about half the tread depth if its a new tire. and also under caution work the car to keep heat in the tires. theres alot to the science to the tires but if they aint right then your prob lossing around a half sec a lap or more, so it makes all the work worth it to gain that speed and its about the cheapest thing you can do to gain speed all your out is your labor.
thanks,
4bangerhotrod

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this is right

in our class were not allowed to "grind" "sipe" "grove" or "treat" our tires. we just hit them with some 36 grit belt sander to "buff" off the gloss. we were using a metal head grinder until this year and had ok success with it. took off more tire than i would have liked but it was all we were "allowed to use" now they took that away and only allow sand paper. would you guys suggest the belt sander we are using or should we go to an orbital so we get scuffing in all different directions?

grind tire with the 7in (i think) 3m foam pad buffing wheel on a 7in harbor freight vairable speed grinder, it uses 36 grit sand paper, does it say you have to have hand buff it, if not use the buffing wheel an you can get 24 grit if you can find it, would prob be best if not allowed anything else. and if i were you i would prob try to sipe maybe a 1/32-1/16in deep then buff over top of sipes. should all be gone after race and would be hard to spot before unless thoughly checked, but if it were me i would try it just to see if i could get away with it. an if you get caught just tell them you bought used tires off a super team some where and didnt notice it.haha
thanks,
4bangerhotrod

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Originally Posted by 4bangerhotrod

grind tire with the 7in (i think) 3m foam pad buffing wheel on a 7in harbor freight vairable speed grinder, it uses 36 grit sand paper, does it say you have to have hand buff it, if not use the buffing wheel an you can get 24 grit if you can find it, would prob be best if not allowed anything else. and if i were you i would prob try to sipe maybe a 1/32-1/16in deep then buff over top of sipes. should all be gone after race and would be hard to spot before unless thoughly checked, but if it were me i would try it just to see if i could get away with it. an if you get caught just tell them you bought used tires off a super team some where and didnt notice it.haha
thanks,
4bangerhotrod

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Dead on, you can get the 24 grit at Tractor Supply some times, they do not always stock them. Another thing that you can do is wash them with simple green it will open the rubber up and you will think it is a new tire. We would carry a few 5 gallon jugs of water and a concrete mixing tub and wash them every time we could.

we did exactly what you said last week. had them siped about 1/8th of an inch and noticed after the race was over the RR tire only had the sipe marks from the center of the tire. we normally run 10lbs of pressure back there. should we be running less pressure in order to get a full contact patch on the ground?

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Originally Posted by rubbinsracin

we did exactly what you said last week. had them siped about 1/8th of an inch and noticed after the race was over the RR tire only had the sipe marks from the center of the tire. we normally run 10lbs of pressure back there. should we be running less pressure in order to get a full contact patch on the ground?

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On our MasterS weve been running 9 if its dry and hard in the RR, and they have been wearing pretty even

Ur not using the right tire prep!!! change to a better prep

we dont use any prep at this point other than some WD40 to seat the tires and we spray a little in the tire to keep it oil'd up inside. what kind of prep do you suggest?

The easiest thing for us to get is some of the stuff you can get out of speedway motors like "trackclaw" or "hot lap".