Turning brake rotors

Has anybody ever had their brake rotors turned on a wide 5 type set up? I have never done them, but wondering if anybody could do them, do I need to take them off the hub, leave them on the hub...

Any experience?

I've had them done before, left them on the hub so it was easier for the mechanic doing it. Careful though as one of the rotors I had done broke when it was on the RF of the car locked up the wheel and the driver creamed the wall ! Not sure it was because it was turned, but looking at the others that were turned i saw what i thought might be a stress point where the lathe stops, and it is right where they bolt to the hub, kind of a weak spot i would think. Might want to see if you could have them surfaced like a flywheel?

If you are on a wide 5 I'm guessing you have a DLM...I know money doesn't grow on trees but if the rotor is bad enough to turn..they aren't that expensive to replace unless you want to get a drilled scalloped one...or a titanium rotor

I've turned mine before, you'll definitely need to leave them on the hub. If you see any hot spots or cracks there junk, but if they clean up after a few light passes your good. The problem is most times you'll need a new one. jmo

Ant

You still race Restad?!lol

I know times are tough and we all look for areas to save some money. This shouldn't be one of them. Buy new rotors. Just my opinion.

I would hate for a 35.00 expense hurt yourself or race car

talon75 Ya I just did on saturday why?

Standard rotor $35, Drilled rotor $45-$50, Scalloped rotor $90-$100. Broken rotor and a trip to the wall = New rotor, new wheel, new spindle, possibly an axle tube(depending on which end you hit the wall with) new tire, new upper and lower a-frame, new or repaired shock and ball joints. Missing a race or two and saving the money to buy new rotors sounds a lot better in my opinion. And god forbid you end up getting a broken arm or something else hurt(We all know the hospital is more expensive than Wilwood.

Rotors warp from heat, heat stresses the metal, machining them is like putting lipstick on a pig. May look good............. but still a pig!
Buy new rotors and pads!

Thanks for the input guys, The ones I have now are not in bad shape, or severly warpped I was thinking of having them done to make sure they were still true. I will do the layout with straight edge and pitch them if not perfect.

What is everybodies experience with rotors? I had a cheap set once, did not seem to last, have had middle of the road sets run for a long time. What has everybody had luck with or had bad luck with? Any LW ones that have repeated breaking problems? What about thickness and lifespan, what is everybodies experience over the years? I have only had the .810 ones, do not see reason to go to narrower, worried about lifespan of the solid ones, but want to see how others have faired with their choices.

We have the Wilwood 1.25 vented rotors and have lasted a long, long time..LOL

Times two, service will not hurt the rotor in as long as there is no damage.