Floater hub seal cut into hub now what?

I just picked up a used floater at a good deal and started checking it out and was looking at seals and the lock ring when I noticed the seal turned inside the hub. Pulled it down and the has spun int the aluminum hub till it ahs cut aprox .10-.15" of and in groove into the hub. Now I dont like this at all but also at a lil loss on what to do. Not looking to spend a fortune having the opening turned and a sleeve put there to tighten this up probably buy new hubs cheaper.

Have a buddy who's hubs did this and he slathered them all over with silicone and they are holding good. I am new to floaters and honest this is my first one but boy am I learning. Far as I know the are older Mittler brothers or SCP aluminum hubs with bolt on rotor adapter plates grand national if that helps.

Just put the seal in and silicone the crap out of it..

Use a center punch and lightly peen about 6 spots around it, this will tighten it back up. Then put some rtv on the new one to get a good seal.

Done that on alot of stuff but this is below the lock ring and you can rock the seal back and forth. This aint like staking a valve seat back in a lawn mower. I dont see a way to stake it, I did think about coming in from an angle and try making pock marks where the seal cut into the hub when it spun but dont know if I could ruff it up enuff.

If I understand what your problem is, I'd probably drill and tap four holes equally spaced on outside of hub and use set screws to hold it in place. But I would still RTV the crap out of it.

Havent bought new seals yet but you can rock the old one back and forth aprox .20" and turn freely by had inside the groove cut in the hub. The blue paint/sealer was still on it probably 1/2 way around but a very nice groove cut by it or other seals in the hub.
I am sure I could JB weld in a new seal and silicone and it be fine but hate to. I didnt give but $250 for the complete rear and really dont believe the guy knew cause I couldnt see till I took apart and wiped the dust and stuff away to check things out.

by the way glad to see you still around Jeff

Difference between peening and staking.

Ok not trying to be a smart ass but but a could consider Peening to take a punch make golf ball looking pock marks all over the place "expanding" th area to hopefully tighten up the seal. Problem is there is so much clearance dont think that will fill the void.

I guess i am goona get some new seals and check them and silisone the snot out of them and hope for the best. I just dont like running stuff like that but also hate to give more for hubs than I gave for the rear end. Thank guys and gals

Honestly jeff if I thought he knew I might say something but I dont whine alot I knew they used and took a gamble so what have I got to whine about? I got a good deal in what I bought even if I had to run these till I found some more hubs at a good price. They were running them and just gonna put quickchange in so I bought this out from under there car. I am gonna get some seals and check it out got a buddy that had a mill he said he could cut ti seal area out and cut a shim to drive the seal into and tighten it up but not sure I wanna got that route. If I tried silicone was gonna prep everything silicone it and install on snout and hope it found it's center.

Kinda wish I had went a different route but he let me have complete floater housing, axles, brakes, hubs, wheels, and front howe? spindles and hubs for $250. Dont need the fronts but they were changing to wide 5 all the way around, hard to turn down.

The fronts have diff bearings big inside and small outside like a camaro or something and the hub has a snout sticking out for outer bearing so you cant put a drive plate on them. was hoping to sell the stuff i dont use and get enough to but a set of bare hubs or just good ones.

May end up buying a set of these if I have to. I think the quoted me $260 or $270 shipped form there website. heard some good stuff about them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-9-Nine-...item3a7e600d49

Yea got a buddy that has some industrial gap filler he sayd he can fix the for next to nothing? dotn know gonna see what he's got. If we cant fix them gonna do something and will message ya.

why not just put it in a lathe and clean up the hole and put a bigger O.D seal into it?

We are gonna put the putty that the has in slide the seal in and assemble the rearend and let it set should line up the seal to the axle.

On the over sized seal if you know of one let me know would prefer that but granger, mcmaster carr said they had nothing sismilar?

go to chicago/rawhide website measure the O.D of the finished hub and match it up with a seal that has the same I.D as your snout. You can used a double lip seal for better sealing.

Old thread but why not use a Inner Axle Seal and stop worrying about it?

The inner axle seal hold the oil in the rear end center, the hub seal holds the hub grease in the bearings and keeps dirt out of the bearings. Not sure how running an axle seal would fix the problem.

I made the assumption the tube was cut only slightly. To much to keep the oil in or if you run inner seals and hand pack the wheel bearings like I do it's never been a problem for me.