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Been considering converting my leaf car to a 3-link what are most of these cars running for pullbar, trailing arm and panhard bar length and do you use the same length trailing arms on each side as i've been reading some use shorter lr than rr to help rear steer and hike. Also is this something that you can convert on your own or would it be best to take it to a chassis builder just looking for ideas.
Hey Derek. I've been thinking for the last 2 years you were waisting your time with the leafs. The leafs will never work as good as the 3 link. If there is moisture they work ok, but when it slicks off they suck. Minimum 16" trailing arm rule. Don't run anything but that on the LR. RR is up for debate, some guys run a little longer on that side. I dont. Panhard minimum is 23" (if I remember correctly) stay in the 23-25 range. On the rearend don't have it any farther to the right side than the right side of the housing area. I've seen them mounted clear over on the right axle tube, that's to far right and you won't get any roll or sidebite. Pullbar length is another area that's up for debate. But I would say anywhere from 24"-36" would be a good starting area. Some like a shorter bar, some like a longer bar. I don't what to tell you on if you should do it or have someone do it for you. If you take your time it really shouldn't be that bad. Wehrs makes a really nice 2 link bracket for the rearend, I would recommend those. My next car is going to get them. Been racing you for the last 2 years, I know you can drive and you have the power, you get on a 3 link and you will be good
Thanks for the info
3 link works great with a solid link also. It'll be way better than that old leaf crap.
^^^^^^what he said! Plus, spring changes are far easier and cheaper!
Yeah, and who's your dealer. Bring that leaf car around here and get lapped.Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtRacer9x
Brett, I been considering that you might be 9x so you could argue with me anonymously again buddy!!Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamGRT12x
Dirtracer9x, what year are you living in??? Becuase in today's world, a solid 3 link car will run circles around a leaf car day in and day out in this area. The 3 links have WAY more adjustability, easy spring changes, more side bite, more forward drive, roll steer etc...
You are apparently still racing in 1988...
Maybe if your running a better tire than the junk IMCA makes us run that would be possible but I've always had side and forward bite issues in the slick with my leaf cars I believe with a junk tire the 3-link will actually push the tire into the track better than the leaf can I was a believer in leaf cars up until I couldn't compete anymore.
What track will you be at? Well all sit on the edge of our seats waiting to see the results posted... of course we wont know whos name to look for because your a (AWP) anonymous weasel poster.Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtRacer9x
I agree everybody that tells me it will work can't tell me who is doing it sure maybe 20 years ago the leaf modifieds could outrun a 3 bar but they were different animals back then and so were the 3 bars they have made a lot of advances on the 3 bar since then but not much on the multileaf suspension this is just how I look at it now.
Well in IMCA's Sportmod class we can't float the rr leaf or run a brake floater or track bar on the leaf car just 2 stacks of solid clamped leafs with 2 shocks and that's it no other suspension no monoleafs either.
I know this has been awhile ago but thanks for all of your info I decided to go to a 3-bar and have already got the car converted anxious to see how much of a difference there is.