RF Turning Right

My question is how far can you turn your rf to the right, last night the track was fast but many cars would overrotate through the center, get in trouble, and turn extreme right to pull it back. The cars I noticed were rockets and GRT's turning an extreme amount. Seemed like the LF all you could see was tire tread.

My car is a Swartz, which has rearward facing strut rods. My tire gets close to the rod, and the brake actually will hit the rod if you turn far right. It seems that i cannot turn to the right as much as other cars.

Anybody ever measured it? Anybody else with a rearward facing strut rod car having similar problems. I know that you do not turn that far very often, it is more of a get you out of trouble option.

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Originally Posted by zeroracing

My question is how far can you turn your rf to the right, last night the track was fast but many cars would overrotate through the center, get in trouble, and turn extreme right to pull it back. The cars I noticed were rockets and GRT's turning an extreme amount. Seemed like the LF all you could see was tire tread.

My car is a Swartz, which has rearward facing strut rods. My tire gets close to the rod, and the brake actually will hit the rod if you turn far right. It seems that i cannot turn to the right as much as other cars.

Anybody ever measured it? Anybody else with a rearward facing strut rod car having similar problems. I know that you do not turn that far very often, it is more of a get you out of trouble option.

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Not sure on the Swartz but on GRT, Rocket<Masters and TNT that I have worked on they all turn MUCH farther to the right. The racks are set up about 60/40 for right turns.

Our MasterSbilt turns pretty far to the right. We use an elbow type brake fitting on the RF caliper to keep the brake line out of the spring. We also utilize a steering stop collar on the rack but it doesn't really work very well (moves no matter how tight we get it). Even with the S7 setup which moves the RF out, we have had the RF tire rub the lower frame rail. At the same time, the LF tire is rubbing the front part of the one-piece lower control arm and the outer tire rod bolt hits the lower control arm also. None of this is desirable but this doesn't happen often and I would rather have the flexibility if I really need to bend the car for some reason.

On some GRT chassis you had to put a spacer on the LF strut rod mount to the lower control arm or you could get the steering arm bolt over the rod when the car was hiked up and when the car comes down it would lock the car turning to the right and you could not turn to the left without getting the LF to drop which would allow the bolt to go over the rod again.

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Originally Posted by Egoracing

On some GRT chassis you had to put a spacer on the LF strut rod mount to the lower control arm or you could get the steering arm bolt over the rod when the car was hiked up and when the car comes down it would lock the car turning to the right and you could not turn to the left without getting the LF to drop which would allow the bolt to go over the rod again.

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Yikes!!!!!

I bought a new rack this winter for my "03" rocket black front car. Tony ay Woodward told me I should shorten my right front tie rod 1/4 inch and lengthen my left front the same to add some left hand steer to the car. He said the current set ups these days keep the cars straighter and the tracks are slicker so the cars are not as hung out. I did what he told me and it helped alot turning the car in. He said the newer cars have the steering gear plate is moved over in the car to compensate. John 1*