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8" wheel is to narrow for those tires I would run a 10" bead lock on rr . Those tires are what we run out here see if you can get 3025 or 3035 hoosiers
Even though Hoosier recommends a 10" rim for these tires, we have to run the F40 and 2045 on a 8" by our rules without a beadlock. do not go lower than 6 psi on them or youll run off the rim without a beadlock. We needle, grind and soak our tires if you wanna get any sorta traction on what we call asphalt pulloffs or slicks. We cannot sipe or groove ours by the rules also.
i always wanted to try the 10" rims. pm me and ill send you to a few places to see the hoosier in action on 8" rims via video and pics. We run 12 to 15 rf, 10 to 12 lf, 8 to 10 lr, 10 to 12 rr with the f40 and 2045's on a 5x4.75 with a 2" offest all the way around. we have to use at least a half inch spacer on rr due to the tire roll over against the frame, now that is using a stock 7.5 gm metric rear, we cannot run a ford 9" in our class.
Might wanta take 2 bead breakers if ya plan on changing tires. So when ya get mad a sling the first one ya have a spare.
Lucky you. I hate breaking them things down. I usually end up with a cheater on my ead breaker and blood coming from somewhere before its over. Good luck. I hope to make a couple of the big shows next yr. Just couldnt get it all together this yr.
If i had a stock car and they had a claim rule for sure. I think you did right for rims surrounding this race, surely you will be able to use the wheels again somewhere down the line... On the tires might want to call hoosier and buy some new ones like alot of the guys do. On a camaro my buddy had he ran 30-45 and grooved shallow. Ada has alot of sand so will wear tires out. Also better 3link that thing if you want to be competitive.
With all this top secret info you should have no problem winning.
Jeff, I've been running these tires for 10 years and they are hard to get hooked up, but they work. You should buy the F40 or 2045's over the 3035's if the race is over 20 laps because the 3035's are softer and wear bad on a sandy hard track. I have "chunked" them out. (The 3035) I use to soften the 2045's, but stopped because they seemed to work better on longer races not softening them, but it helps to soften them on short races like heats. It seems once they get heat in them they work better, but they are bad about glazing over so grind them to help prevent the glazing over. I always change both rear tires before the feature. I would definetly run 10 inch wheels. I've ran them on 8 and 10's and the 10's work the best. I only run a bead lock on the rr and usually run about 11-12 psi in the rr. I always run a 3 inch offset on the rr with a 1/2 inch spacer for clearance. Good luck, Ricky
I know this has nothing to do with "this" post, but 3dinter, I just noticed that you're from Ft. Worth ? Did you race a Boothill Speedway or Greenville this past weekend ?
I dont know about Ok but if you show up with a new tire at Bateville it wont last thur the A main. I watched a couple try it last yr and they made it about 20 laps. But you can run a 3035 pull off and it will last the whole main. Thats what most people ran last yr but this yr several were on F40s cause the 3035s were hard to find.
I have a modified dont need expensive stock nor have room in the garage. The way you talk you are the best in your area, i really expected you to come down and take the 10k and send everyone home crying now your just happy to make the A? Oh jeffy you are too much fun
Hope you heal well. There's always another race.
Well Jeff, how did the doc visit go??
Bateville is supposed to have a pretty good show in March.
Cool, glad they were able to correct it.
Jeff,,,8-12-12 Stewart in car crazy, there's a red triangle, 3 led on the dash above the tach? Whats that for?