Rods for a ump motor

Hey guys,

I have a 383 roller motor for my modified and i'm looking to upgrade my rods, because it looks as if I broke one. Looking for some feedback on a good quality rod to upgrade from my Eagle ones I have now. Let's hear some suggestions.

if it were me i'd use dyers or crower maxi lites

Oliver billets without a doubt.

All of the rods mentioned in the other posts are very good.

Depending on size I have Carrillo's, Manley's and Crowers. Most are 300m material or better, starting around $500 set. These rods were $1800-$2800 set when new. Many are from spintron tests and short run dyno tests. Almost 100% have been magged and x-rayed to confirm quality after testing.

I have used them in anything from 2-BBL Imca engines, to 850HP Dirt SB-2's.

Only thing is I don't have them in LJ 5.7"...well I do have a couple sets but they are pretty high $$$.

Where did your Eagle rod break and how old was it ???

I'm not sure where my rod broke, I'll know tonight when I de-can the motor. As for age of the rods they have 20 nights on them, and motor was just freshened. We are assuming the rod bent or broke due to the engine just locking up at idle when backing out of my pit. I"m interested in upgrading them for a stronger more durable motor as next year rolls around. But if they are failed no time like the present to replace them.

Most likely the rod broke because of something other than the rod. Could have spun a bearing or the engine could have hrydrauliced and bent the rod, then????. What are the specs on your engine?

olivers... great rod. but usually somethin goes wrong before the rod breaks

ive noticed w the inexpensive rods you have to watch the sizing close. some need resizing after only 1 freshening. some need resizing right out of the box. rarely do they break from fatigue. usually bearing is going south heats up heats the rod up and then it breaks on lower portion of beam where connects to big end.

when a rod breaks from fatigue the bearing will still be in good condition. iv unbolted broken rods where the bearing looked brand new. if the crank and bearing are black bearing went first.

We use/sell a lot of the Callies Compstar rods on our budget stuff.
They are an offshore unit, but unlike others they come round. But even those need to be resized EVERY rebuild. None of the offshore units will stay round like American made forgings........like Carrillo, Dyer, Oliver.
IF you can afford it, the American made stuff is a better investment, for the long haul.TB

The best rods on the market are DYERS TOP RODS dont buy anything else.

Good advice above.