monoleaf car questions

Playing with a monoleaf late model at a few local tracks and wondering if someone that ran up front in 93-94 with a BWRC, mastersbilt or swartz could tell me the height that the side engine mounts were from the ground. Leaf cars were fastest at this time, I know spacers were being used by bloomquist and Johnson and many other front runners in normal track conditions. Also if at that time did front runners run heavy on RR or LR, 500's on front, 175's on rear or a split, rearend square or not, caster on lf and rf, fifth arm, weight placement, leafs in top or bottom hole in front, etc. I know about the traction stack leaf on LR and so on but just trying to find someone that might have been in front or helped someone running up front on a big stage that could help with some suggestions. thanks

Not sure if you looking for another but I have a very nice BW copy mono leaf late model. I'm on face book. Blane Huffman

MastersbiltRacer may be able to help....

If I can't figure out how to drive the old 4 bar MB I bought I may just try leafs on the rear....

anybody know someone that has an 93-94 monoleaf that I could call. Blane do you have a number I could reach you on.

2 - 450 springs on the front, 2 - 225's on the rear. Get the lf, rf and rr weighing the same and lr 150 pounds of bite. 400 spring on the lift bar. Hang on and have fun, quick on this basic set up.

BTW forget all the trick stuff, keep it simple. You will be fast longer and more consistent.

thanks for suggestion Ill try. when I scaled car a few weeks ago had quite a bit of LS weight moved engine far as I could to right (1.5") stiil LS heavy cant remember exactly maybe have 54.4% and im only 165#. Seems like LF was about 160# heavier than RF with LR about 90# heavier than RR. needed to weigh more so put 40# on RF right behind motor plate down on main 2x2 frame rail trying to get some weight on RF and take LS out. car still needs side bite that's way I was looking for a measurement on engine mount height. At track 2 weeks ago moved leafs down to lower adjustment hole in front and screwed down on coilovers about 7/8 in. to raise car on rear. helped at that track for feature (track was hard but had grip) 3.5". last weekend different track(like a corn field) no side bite no forward drive 3.5" stagger. thinking I should move front of leafs back up and lower back of car and picking up engine to help side and forward bite. Giving more info so there is a clearer picture. thanks

3.5" stagger

anyone that has or had success with leaf car, input/adjustments would be appreciated. thanks

Just playin you can text me at 704 962 4731

Stay on top of those mono-leafs. They lose their rate real fast. We changed ours every 6 races.

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Originally Posted by Just Playin

Playing with a monoleaf late model at a few local tracks and wondering if someone that ran up front in 93-94 with a BWRC, mastersbilt or swartz could tell me the height that the side engine mounts were from the ground. Leaf cars were fastest at this time, I know spacers were being used by bloomquist and Johnson and many other front runners in normal track conditions. Also if at that time did front runners run heavy on RR or LR, 500's on front, 175's on rear or a split, rearend square or not, caster on lf and rf, fifth arm, weight placement, leafs in top or bottom hole in front, etc. I know about the traction stack leaf on LR and so on but just trying to find someone that might have been in front or helped someone running up front on a big stage that could help with some suggestions. thanks

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LF-500 RF-550
LR-225 RR-225/250
Raise the fuel cell up 2 inches, throw wheel spacers on RF/LR. BWRC recommended 3 inch offset wheel on RF for even more. Contact www.Flex-Form.com/
in Anderson, SC for some composite leafs to really get you humping.

Scaling can be tricky, Set your frame heights as recommended if you know them. Then read your scales, if you are pretty far off work all 4 corners to get closer to weighs you want. By that I mean if left front heavier than right front, then I would put 1 round down on right front, 1 round up on the left front, 2 rounds down on left rear and 2 rounds up on right rear. rescale the car and continue doing same thing until you get the front weight where you want it, then use lead or move battery around on the rear to get weight in line. Every time you move something then look at you weights. RR lighter is not bad. 5 in offset on all corners, air pressure in tires as you race them, 12 gallons fuel and someone in drivers seat that weighs same as driver. We only had motor slightly to left of center but we raised it up. Iron block higher helps side bite. We ran shocks rated at lf 75, rf 74, lr 94 and rr 94. When we had side bite issues and forward bite issues we used a 93 shock on the rr. And as someone mentioned above sometimes we raised the fuel cell but the problem we had with using the fuel cell location as an adjustment was fuel burn off was a problem. Might not be too bad if you are on gas but we ran alky.

BTW set the leaf spring front spring in one spot and don't mess with that at the track. Moving this could affect a lot of things. Pinion angle, weight settings, lift bar setting etc. We never had that adjustment, and as soft as this leaf spring is I would use this as a fine tuning adjustment.

thanks for the input.

talked to bloomquist yesterday. He suggested 150 lr 200 rr, around 20#s heavy rr on scales, raise engine and fuel cell. Later on I thought of other questions but had already left where he was. Like getting rr heavier screwing all four coil overs would also make lf heavier than what it is now. Could move battery to right bottom rear frame rail in front of rear axle I guess. Any suggestions

PJC68 and Bullittwrench sent you private messages back, appreciate the messages.