As soon as the brown is gone the car will not roll to right side .
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As soon as the brown is gone the car will not roll to right side .
Gonna need alot more info than that to give you any help
buy a magic XR1.....couldn't help it man...lol....jking is correct though , lot of variables , to stiff rt springs , j-bar , ballast , engine placement , roll centers and on and on......
it helps me to type out the problem - there is less grip in the track, so the cars go slower. as they are now going slower, there is less cornering forces at play to compress the right side springs.
With that said, we need to do something mechanical to get the car to compress those springs. J-bar angle on the rear end helps, so does less preload in the RR spring, or less right side bar angle. On the RF, a softer rate spring or less preload helps, or increasing your stack spring gap, or taking packer(s) out of the RF bumpstop setup.
All of these things help get on the right side, but how far to go with each adjustment and which one(s) to choose is the test. A soft LR spring rate <150lbs can also help keep the LR of the car at attitude which then keeps left side bar angle in, j-bar angle in, etc which all help to compress the RS of the car in the slick.
The old flat car problem. I'd be getting all of my shocks checked on a dyno and consult with someone who knows what they are doing if they are appropriate for slick conditions. Also be looking into the spring rates and track width on the car as they both have a big affect on roll angle. The next thing is binding of rod ends and poor geometry front and back. Making sure nothing is seizing and it's all moving freely.
Air pressures on your tires, tire prep, weight distribution. If you're a heavy driver that will play a big role too and may need to make some changes in the height and lateral location of weight in the car or create some longer leverage arms through the suspension, or both.