Coilover Eliminator questions

We have a stock clip limited late model very similar to a 3 link type mod swing arm on left rear RR spring on top of housing. Car works very well now what I do not like is how the car bows RR spring as car rolls onto RR.If anyone has a fix for this would love to hear I cannot come up with one other than going to eliminator on RR behind housing which I really do not want to do. For our application are the high priced eliminators really needed right now we are using Southwest Speed eliminators lr got bent in a crash have spare but they are ready to be replaced l really like the Howes with brass bushings which we can get for around 75 $ each.Also what would be difference between eliminator behind RR vs in front of RR . I come to modified forum to ask this because of how much our car is like a modified and the modified forum is a lot more active Thanks.

Slider and on top or on trailing arm.

Moving the same spring from on top to behind will make it act stiffer. Moving it to the front(swing arm) will make it softer. If you make either of these changes, you will need to change the rate of the spring to match your current wheel rate.

Try to find swivel mounts for the top and bottom of the spring if you want to keep it on top. I think Speedway sells one for the top and BSB makes one for the axle tube. That will help with the "bowing" of the spring.

Thanks I have thought about the swivel cup on top will check on the axle mount .l thought about mounting the spring mount and jack screw at an angle to the inside of car so as car rolls it will not bow as bad right now spring is mounted straight up and down.when l built car it was swing arm both sides but my son just did like car like that he said car was just too tight and would not rotate in center of corner it really freed up car when we put spring on top of housing.

Angled in at the top is common. Try to get it in the same arc the body roll. Not always possible but try. Angle will also soften the effect of the spring a little.

I think l am going to do that as I really like the spring on top are the high priced sliders really needed as the car has a solid top and does not articulate as much as a car with a spring type top link. We are talking about a difference of 75 to 100$ more for one w/ true linear bearings .Thanks again.

Northern Sport Mods move almost as much as Modifieds do. The Sport Mods use a solid top link and are 3-link rear suspensions.

I really like the Wers sliders but they are more expensive. Don't price yourself out of having fun. It happens way too easily and often.

use swivel cups when applicable. you can also research and test springs from other manufacturers to see if you can find a spring that distorts the least under loading

If you need sliders go with the ones from Wehr's, they re a little more expensive but well worth the money, they are alot smoother that any of the others on the market.

Thanks I am going to get him to buy the good slider for lr I know all about being cheap usually bites me in the rear!!!!