Nova lowers/ Centerlink question

I recently converted my metric chassis to nova lowers and Impala spindles. I'm using a 85 monte carlo centerlink. well, as expected this makes the tie rods (swedge tubes) point forward quite a bit. Unfortunately, the tubes are making contact with the center link. I think I can eliminate the contact between the tie rods and centerlink by running stock inner tie rods because there appears to be a little bend in them. However that doesn't eliminate my problem of the tie rods pointing forward due to the ball joint being forward more with the nova lowers.

I've heard somewhere about running a 85 camaro centerlink but I wanted to get some feedback before I bought one ( their 50 bucks and I now own a brand new monte centerlink drilled for 5/8) First of all, do they bolt right up to the metric chassis? and second and most important, will it even out my tie rods and not make them point forward so much? In looking at the camaro centerlink on AZ website, it looks like its got more agressive bends. I'm hoping the centerlink will actually sit farther out near the steering box to take the forward point out of the tie rods. Any help on this matter would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
Armond

I have a Pierce with nova lowers and I run stock inner tie rod ends with the bend in them. I usually bend them a little more for extra clearance. It also helps the RS tube from rubbing on the bottom of the frame when the car rolls onto the RF in a turn. I have the stock metric centerlink and S-10 spindles. Maybe the steering arms on the Impala spindles are longer? Maybe want to check the difference? What about your steering box pitman arm and idler arm length? What do you have on there? If you've got Camaro stuff on there then you might need the Camaro centerlink.

Hey 3J, thanks for the response. I've measured the Impala and metric spindle from the center of the lower BJ hole to the center of the steering arm hole and their pretty close to the same length...the Impala is actually 1/4" shorter. I don't know what the idler and pitman are from as I bought it as a roller, but I would assume metric as the car was a full metric setup last year. I did consider going to a shorter idler and pitman but I would have no idea what to try for a shorter one.

When you say you use the stock inner with the bend in it, are you using the metric inner or an actual bent inner from another model? I have an old junk metric inner and I placed it on top of the current setup and it does look like it will fit, I think the swedge tube is just too thick. It's only rubbing right where the tube screws into the heim. Also with your setup, do your tie rods point forward somewhat? Thanks for your help.
Armond

use a metric center link inner tie rods with the bends are from a 80 camaro. tubes are 10 inches long but will have to have 11/16 lh and 5/8 right hand threads. you can buy those tubes from pierce. hope that helps

That helps a TON mherbert, thank you. Just out of curiousity..why the strange tube? Is the 11/16 lH side to screw into the camaro inner?

yes the camaro is 11/16 threads

Hey Armond. Like the others indicated, metric center with Camaro inners. UB Machine also has the 10" bars if you don't go through Pierce. On one of the other sites (when it used to be good), there was a link talking about this and some were using a different center link (I think a Camaro also) and it has the idler arm pointing to the right rear when the box is centered. Don't know why or what it does to the steering but that was the other option on the metric front.

Hey Fred, good call on the UB tube. I ordered Them from Lanes this afternoon for 10 bucks each...pretty good deal I thought for a specialized part. I'm glad I diddn't go with the Camaro centerlink, that just doesn't seem right the way the idler arm would be pointing. I went and picked up the inners and new centerlink also...I wish I diddn't drill out the other one. I REALLY appreciate the help guys, I would have been scratching my head for a week over that one, lol.

P.S. I'll make someone an awesome deal on a 12 hour old metric centerlink drilled for 5/8 Heims

anyone ever tried running chevelle idler/pitman arms with nova lowers....itd shorten the arms back up and help get the ackerman back closer to how they are with the stock metric stuff

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Originally Posted by junebug

anyone ever tried running chevelle idler/pitman arms with nova lowers....itd shorten the arms back up and help get the ackerman back closer to how they are with the stock metric stuff

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That's a good question. I've never ran on the above setup, so is the ackerman really noticable behind the wheel?

Shortening the arms will slow down the steering a little, correct? Won't shortening the arms also cause the ackerman to actually create more toe in when counter steered to the right? Maybe I'm wrong. Just asking.

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Originally Posted by junebug

anyone ever tried running chevelle idler/pitman arms with nova lowers....itd shorten the arms back up and help get the ackerman back closer to how they are with the stock metric stuff

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Just looked at that this week. It doesn't work out because the metric idler is on about a 15 degree angle in order to make it run true with the steering box and pitman. For some reason GM made the RF frame rail of the metric chassis on an an angle, so you need an idler that is made on an angle to correct the condition at the center link.

My explanation might not make sense, but go take a look at it and I think you will figure it out like I did. I bolted up the chevelle idler as soon as I got the car and figured out that it wasn't going to work. Immediately ordered the metric idler and the corresponding metric 6.5" pitman to get the car rolling.

My friend just went through this on his metric clip. He's running nova lowers, metric spindles, metric centerlink, and chevelle pitman and idler to make the tie rods and centerlink as parallel as possible. he wound up drilling new mounting holes on the frame for the idler to get around the mounting angle issue.

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Originally Posted by PIERCE3J

Shortening the arms will slow down the steering a little, correct? Won't shortening the arms also cause the ackerman to actually create more toe in when counter steered to the right? Maybe I'm wrong. Just asking.

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Yes and Yes. The shorter arms will slow down the steering, but the increase in ackerman will counteract the feel of slower steering. Generally more ackerman will create snappier/quicker steering. The difference is huge on asphalt, I'm a bit unsure of how noticeable it will be on dirt.

Are you talking about the spindle arms ?? If so shortening them will increase steering speed.....