screw jacks

trying to install screw jacks in front of our metric street stock. cut factory upper mount off, welded plate with adjuster nut on frame. Try to install upper mounts, problem is the upper shaft is directly over top adjuster bolt hole. Tried mount on outside of hole, upper on out side to much +camber on drivers side, upper on inside of plate and shaft blocks hole. pass side with plate outside of hole, no - camber, inside of hole shaft on outside of mount blocks hole, inside of mount takes a bunch of shims. Any ideas?

Cut the plate out and start over. Mount the uppers first, or locate them first. Then put the plates in.

If I do that, then the spring won't sit in the pocket correctly?

This is a common issue when using stock, or stock replacement control arms. For me it was more important to get the upper arm where I wanted it and the camber / caster numbers I wanted. Once all that was done I worked on the jack bolt, and got the length set so my scales numbers were right and I still had a couple rounds of adjustment before it would hit the cross shaft.
They do also make a weight jack with a swivel bucket attached to it that would allow you to have the jack bolt off center and may be enough to give you the clearance you need. Eric

Thanks srx, we have cut the bolt off to clear, just didn't think that was right. If I move the plate back, the spring will bind on frame, only have a finger thickness of clearance. Could move out toward tire, but the it won't sit on lower control arm correctly. Sounds like I have them in location, just need to weld them in place and live with it. THanks for both replies

Very important to get the spring in the correct position to avoid " spring bow" under compression and thus create an inconsistent handling car. You dont want to use a swivler to try and correct the problem. I dont put a jack bolt in the RF for just the reason you are explaining, the A arm cross shaft will be in the way, so I weld in a hidden adjuster from the bottom side. Once you set your ride height I rarely messed with it. If i wanted to add bite, I would adjust it in the rear not the front.

Dave

Thanks racer96. Sent you a pm, hope you don't mind

I cut my lf weight jack bolt shorter once i figure out where my ride height needs to be. This puts the bolt under the cross shaft so i can get proper ride height and camber.

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Originally Posted by stockcar5

I cut my lf weight jack bolt shorter once i figure out where my ride height needs to be. This puts the bolt under the cross shaft so i can get proper ride height and camber.

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Same here, I never had a issue with the rf bolt with oem type uppers.

that is exactly what we did, Thanks

I think it depends on how much Caster you like to run. I always liked to run at least 2.5 - 3.0 degrees of caster split so that normally put the RF in the 4-5 degree range. Eric

I usually run +3 - 3 1/2 on rf, and +1 1/2 on lf. Car seems to like it.