Is anyone still running early to mid 2000s Rayburn’s and having success? Looking at buying one and was just curious how many other people still ran them.
Is anyone still running early to mid 2000s Rayburn’s and having success? Looking at buying one and was just curious how many other people still ran them.
To run as a limited Sportsman or pro stock or something? Don’t buy an early 2000’s ANYTHING to run late model unless you are capable of completely bringing it up to now. Including crate.
It would help if you have others in your area that also run those cars to help with set-up info. I understand the later Revolution chassis is better. They always worked good on those Illinois style tracks... Hell buy it and have fun!
I have an 03 that has won several hundred races,cmplete with dry sump motor,bert trans,with bell housing and ps pump, steel head Dart block all for $5500
i started out in a late model in a 1999 shaw in 2001, larry had just become a rocket dealer and was working with dale McDowell , it was fast on a heavy track , but not good in the slick , with help from Kevin Shaw and Shane McDowell , we basically put it on rocket geometry and won a few races and most always in top 5 , but like rocky said , none of them from 01 are gone be very competitive with todays chassis .......
I’m not trying to be negative, maybe the OP is way way better of a mechanic than me, but I know that I have managed to make a complete fool of myself trying to do this. I don’t need any help either. Pro Stock or something, go for it. But here’s the deal, you pay an entry fee to race and if you junk somebody’s $50-80,000 ride with an old heap, be ready to need a police escort out of the place. The quality of your car is part of your entry fee. So if you do. Make sure it’s shining like a diamond so you can at least present the illusion. If you’re a drunk, like I was when I came up with that idea and your car has a 3rd hand body etc, just don’t.
https://m.facebook.com/#!/groups/336...group_activity
Buy this car. This is a proven winner in North Carolina. I know the guy and he’s on the up and up.
By shining like a diamond I mean you change every bit and bolt. Not one effin spec of rust anywhere. Every seal is junk every bearing is junk. Replace every single one. The one that you don’t WILL take you out of a race. The ball joints and rod ends are all junk too. Replace those too. Fuel cell isn’t certified? Buy one of those. Right front cutoff? That’s bad. Get an electric one, about $120. Re powder coat the chassis, fresh sheet metal including all the decking and (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit....... Now, pay yourself $8.00 per hour for doing all that work and tell me where you saved any money. And oh by the way now you have a brand new 20 year out of date car. Just buy a good car now and save your time and money.
My bad, but I totally forgot that the entire electrical system is ready for the trash can too. When you put it together do it right and solder and heat shrink everything. Or maybe run whatever is there. Strap in for the feature click the switch push the buttons and let the world go dark. Since you’re there by yourself, miss the race.....
Buy the d*m thing and go have fun. Listening to everyone on here they just want to tell you how much better this and that can be. You asked about a early rayburn, call them, tell them what you want to do and take there advice. Ask them what to look for and we're to pull a tape so it's not twisted to a point of you just bought a boat anchor. Then you will be sorry.
If you buy anything used, you still have to do all this but if something is newer you might be able to use more and be way closer to the ballpark when you’re done. If you buy a car that’s so darn old that you gotta replace everything right down to the paint on the frame, that’s like building a brand new car. And if you’re doing that...... Believe me. I made the same decision myself just recently.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtcrazy4u
Not a rayburn but he had a pretty fun season in an old chassis.
https://www.pontiacdailyleader.com/s...qi_hYbK54dxIao
Unless it’s in a Pro Stock/Sportsman type deal, no way. Just wasting money to run in the back.
That looks like a nice ride. And a good price to me.
It’s the I95 challenge champion 2019. I told my buddy to buy it. It’s a really fair price and its a guy that I know is on the up and up. It’s something that I would have bought.Quote:
Originally Posted by chupp n bloomer fan
If you’re a veteran driver, with a meticulously maintained older ride, that’s stayed up on the updates, that’s totally different than a rookie going out there with some old heap off of racing junk. The second one, That’s like jumping off a cliff into 200 foot deep water with sharks with frickin’ laser beams on their heads.Quote:
Originally Posted by cdustyr1
If it is still available.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
If a guy’s on a super tight budget you could do something like this. Way better than an 01 or 02 anything. But know that that low price is there for a reason. Call Rocket or bring somebody that knows to verify those updates. You won’t win in this, but a top 10 wouldn’t be out of the question.
https://m.facebook.com/#!/groups/336...38704006230783
AFTER you do everything I said before that is.
Find a straight or freshly clipped blue/gray. Send it to a Rocket dealer and have 19 updates put on it. Not very expensive. PM me for changes to the rear geometry. We have an 06 and an 11. The 11 we ran this year and it ran with and won against XR1's and Horns.