bump steer?

I am pretty new to late models. I was wondering if someone could explain bump steer and how to adjust it, and what results I am looking for. I know it has to do with the rf tie rod height on the rack but that's it. Thanks in advance!

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis...eer-explained/

Its alot of math. And few can put it in words. Go google bumpsteer and read 3-4 articles on it then go check your car and start moving stuff to see what changes what.

I believe Longacre has a pretty lengthy tech article on their website.

The same premise as any other link with a fixed mounting point and the opposite end travelling up/down (such as a 4-bar). The end that travels up/down works on an arc, so looking at it vertically it moves in/out (so on a spindle it would affect the toe). Your chassis manufacturer should have a spec for both fronts. I believe MasterSbilt is something like .0015" out on the LF and .0030" out on the RF during the first inch of bump.

bump steer is the relationship between the lowers and the tie rod ends,its a big long drawn out deal but if done correctly, helps for consistent handling when turning threw the corners
1st set your rf tie rod to the exact length of your rf lower control arm(center to center)
2nd now you work on your angle and shim it to get it in spec(i myself never want the rf to toe in and no more than .030 out from ride height to 3 inches of travel)or use a rack with the slotted eyes(but if you do you'll need to mark them so if it does move you'll know where to put it back)
3rd set total toe out with the lf and try to get the best you can with your angle on the tie rod(i prefer the rf to be perfect and get the lf as close as possible but here is a good guide line,no more that .015 toe in on rebound and no more than .030 out in compression)
with all this said your chassis manufacturer should already have this figured out,but if you do choose to do it you will need a bump steer gauge set up,or you could build one if you really wanted too
it does help with consistent handling

you'll need a ton of patience when doing this,still today i have to walk away after a while

Thanks guys, I have read up on it also now. It does seem to be pretty in depth. I have a Rayburn now. I only had it out once but it seemed to steer very smooth compared to my old GRT I wrecked. But now I know probably why. I put new style spindles on the grt and didn't check bump and adjusted toe from the right front. I want to make sure I am doing things right now. Thanks again

This process has became a lot simpler by using a slotted eye rack.

To do it without a lot of guesswork you really need to graph out the toe for various amounts of bump and rebound.
If the wheel toes in on bump and rebound, the tie rod is too short.
If the wheel toes out on bump and rebound, the tie rod is too long.
If the wheel toes in on bump and out on rebound, you need to either raise the tie rod end on the rack or lower the end on the spindle.
If the wheel toes out on bump and in on rebound, you need to either lower the tie rod end on the rack or raise the end on the spindle.

Thanks for the information guys. I will definitely be checking everything out so it is right.