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Has anybody moved their oil cooler from the standard location(under deck, across from gauge panel)? I also tried it mounted to the right of the torque arm standing vertically and didn't get much improvement. Thinking about putting it in front of radiator to get cooler oil temps.
Are you on a wet sump?
running a dry sump
We hurt a motor a few years ago and had to throw one away.Never put one back on.My sending unit is in the tank and we never saw any difference in oil temp.I agree with you that there is not enough air flow under the deck to help much.
I've always wondered, with it mounted in the deck, is it pulling air through from underneath or pulling air through from up top? I ask because I see some guys run a "scoop" basically pointed towards the front of the car, which should force air down and into it. But if the air is coming from under the car, isn't that causing an impasse?
You would think nowadays with everyone trying to seal off the bottom of the car and keep as little air as possible underneath I wouldn't see it practical for an oil cooler to be getting air from the bottom. The low pressure from the rear of the car would be much larger I would think so it wouldn't pull very much air through from the bottom at least that's what I'm thinkingQuote:
Originally Posted by TheJet-09
Use a fan...
In theory, the top of the deck is high pressure, the underside of the deck is low pressure and air always flows from high to low. However in the past when the cars weren't so sealed off, I do believe the deck mounted coolers were aided by air flow beneath the car. Thats not the case when you seal one off.
What kind of oil temps are you guys running? I'm seeing 300deg F on the oil, and 220degF on the water during hooked up, hammer down conditions.
Water 200 -210,Oil 220-240.I have a 4 gallon dry sump tank.If you have a drop deck ,the area right behind the drop will flow air from under the car to the deck.
I guess another important thing is where are you measuring oil temp at? I'm measuring at the filter, right after oil comes out of the scavenge section of the pump so its probably the hottest in the circuit.
Also, has anybody used those linear/tube coolers? They help at all?
It was always my opinion that with the cooler flat against the deck, the air went thru the cooler from bottom to top not the other way around. The air going over the deck would siphon air and pull it up thru the cooler. Not real date to prove this, but with a forward facing scoop trying to force air down and no scoop, without scoop seems to be a fair amount cooler then the scoop confirming my theory but could been a number of things so hard to say 100%.
You said measuring temp at the filter but also said after it comes out of the scavenge? Your filter is on the suction/scavenge side or are you talking the oberg and not the actual spin on filter?
I check temp before it goes into the engine, which would be right before or after it goes thru the spin on filter.
Have you ever ran the engine for a little while then shut it off and pulled the drain plug on the pan and checked how much oil was in the pan? There should be no more then half a quart to a quart max or so in there right after you shut it off and if there is the pump has a problem or you have a scavenge problem leaving too much oil in the pan and the crank whips the oil up creating heat. I've seen it before where a guy has high oil temps and when you drain the pan after running you get a quart and half to 2 quarts and the pump was the issue as it had a bad section in the pump.
Just some things to look for.
Had a car that the deck dropped a couple inches past the hood.We drilled some 1'' holes in the deck and taped orange ribbon under the deck.On the pace laps in pulled the ribbon thru the holes.The flag man had them stop us and thought we were on fire.
So if you ran a scoop backwards, would the air over the deck siphon the air from under?
Any ideals on a low buck ,redneck way to find low and high pressure areas on a car?
Well because the amount of air pressures will change with speed I wonder if a 10/0/10 mechanical gauge and a Go Pro cam would indicated areas of higher or lower pressures. Some kite steamers would indicate air flow direction at least.
Several hanging from the various bars and brackets the Go Pro can be placed to see all of them. You might be surprised!
Of course all this would be considered "data collecting" so tell the tech guy its your birthday or you just got married or something. Don't actually get married though. That's bad.
While not cheap, wind tunnel time can be had for around 375.00 an hour if you do your research and willing to travel. Still a big investment though for most people.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCJ
There are simulation programs and apps out there that can give you a general idea out there as to what could be happening with some simple/basic drawings and rather cheap and interesting to mess with.
OK Red neck engineer, Build scale car. Weight it like real car for percentages. Build your wind tunnel with a good fan and box. Mount scale car to accurate letter scales on each corner. Turn on fan and you will see down force in scale weights. Make changes and weights will change. Make no mistake, these weight compared to over all weight don't seem right sometimes but down force can be big or not much at all due to little things. Pay particular attention to front wheel openings and hood seal off. Sealing off front bumper to ground is also important. A happy medium of clearance and seal is what your looking for. Play with ride height and body mount height. You can smoke the air to see flow if you want. Suck the air threw and watch the seal between floor and 4 scales.