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Trying to understand what is really happening with a chain limiter. Not doubting that it works, just do not really understand. Why doesn't the limiter lift LR off the track more than helping traction? Is there a good article about this or can someone explain, very simply so I can grasp the concept. Thanks for helping an old man, whose mind isn't as sharp as it once was, understand what is going on.
Mainly it controls the rear steer and stops the drop at the same place regardless of the bar angle changes . Too much drop equals too much steer. Too much drop also creates a fulcrum point that lifts the left front off the racetrack too much for the car to steer. Too much lift also makes it hard to enter the corner. Everything that goes up must come down. Something is going to stop it at some point, whether it is a shock topping out, or the driveshaft bottoming, or a hiem joint binding somewhere ( none of which is good)
Why doesn't the limiter lift LR off the track more than helping traction?
Because the bars are pushing up on the chassis the same amount the the tire is pushing down. Gravity is pushing both down at the same time.
Thanks. Makes a lot more sense now.
On the same subject, my car doesn't have a chain but instead has a cone bump stop on a bracket welded to underrail and a bracket on tube that it hits. What is the pros and cons of this setup? Should I replace with chain(I know the setup I now have is sort of old school) Also, is there a chain kit that works better than others that I can buy? Afco, Wehr's, etc.
You may get some handling inconsistencies, once the rubber gets some age and wear on it.
The aluminum bracket from Rocket works very well on the underrail, which is easily adjusted by loosening the two bolts.
What's the rule of thumb for setting the chain? Right now I have a a lot of travel and I've been fighting a loose condition. Could this be a cause?
Loose where? Some set the chain where the top bar at full drop is 45 degrees. That will put you close most of the time if you don't have chassis builder's recommendation. Best of luck.
Car is loose from center off,
It could be if its got too much rear steer in it. It does sound like a drive issue though. Give some data like springs, bar angles, pull bar angle, spring or biscuit, stuff like that and see if someone can't help you. Is the rear end even up? Entry is good and thru the middle? Best of luck.
The chain keeps the coil loaded. Once the LR coil becomes unloaded, the traction is dead. Also, there is no suspension travel to compensate for bumps on the track surface.
You sir, are incorrect. It is impossible to have equal loading on the wheels without a LR spring. Unloaded coil means unequal loading 99% of the time. The more load that is applied to a wheel, the traction goes in a decreasing rate. MORE LOAD equals LESS TRACTION. We want equal loading of each wheel for optimum traction capabilities. You have to balance the set up. Use all 4 wheels of the race car. You will be faster and more consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by stock car driver
Agree, unless you are running under a 175, and/or with alot of LR(100+pds) and/or the chain is shorter than 4inches of travel. Car i drove for a guy had 3 1/2inches of lr travel and still got to 45 degrees and still had the amount of trail most the cars end up with.Quote:
Originally Posted by stock car driver
Sorry guys I was away for the weekend, at ride height the Lr upper is 30 degrees and the Lr lower is 5 degrees. at full hike the rearend has 5" of travel and the upper is at 50 degrees, the spring still has tension on it at 50 degrees.
Rr the upper is 17 degrees and the lower is level at ride height.
Usually if I see any gap on a cars lr spring at full hike it's because they're running over 4.5" lr drop with no indexing. I personally will not unload the lr spring and always run a 175 on any car I touch. The car is more consistent in my opinion loaded especially for a driver that isn't as smooth as others.
Stock car I can assure you this is my only screen name on this site.
RRR Products. Specialize in Mecahnical traction devices such as top links and dual stage spring set ups for hobby stocks to modifieds. Stock car, everyone here would agree you bully others. I'm not here to bad mouth you or anyone but here to learn as we always do and also help with others who want to strive for perfection around a race track. You don't earn anyone's respect on here being the way you are as a "know it all" because none of us do know it all. Bloomquist loves this sport because you never are fast enough and he loves the challenge and never ending equation. Please stop bad mouthing others not for just everyone here but for yourself and improving as a human being. Oh and if anyone would like driver coaching, video consulting and diagnosis, along with way to improve yourself on and off track we can make you perform better as a guarantee. Check out some of our online parts for sale such as eBay for our Phantom Bar top link and also our new dual stage spring set up for any front end coil car that wants to run a dual stage front spring set up just like Late Models do. 619-301-7880
Why should I show my hand? Why should I have to defend myself because I choose to share information that is ACCURATE and can help other racers be more successful, anonymously? I'm not in this for fame or recognition. I share information because I LOVE racing. Nothing is more exciting than good clean close racing. Stock Car Racer, if you have a problem with the information I share, please feel free to prove me wrong with credible information. Please include source. I myself, have an Associate of Science degree, majoring in Vehicle Dynamics. Also, I am an active member of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE International). I have over 10 years of hands on experience working with dirt modified, including both U.M.P. and IMCA.
Stock Car Racer, with all do respect, would you like a tissue? All I see coming from you is crying and inaccurate information. Do I know it all, absolutely not. I do learn more and more everyday. Why do you have a problem with the information I post, and the fact that I choose to remain anonymous?
Oh here he gave his number. Here is mine. 574-275-3560. Feel free to call anytime 24/7. ANYONE who would like help learning more about Vehicle Dynamics and making your car perform consistently, please feel free to use the number provided. 24/7. Thank you