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Do you want to use aggressive compound brake pads on the rear, or stick with stock type pads that offer less braking? I end up using the brake sometimes in the turns and tight traffic to help control the car, but car seems to set well into the turn with the brakes now. Affraid if I put better brakes on the back, it might not handle so well in the turns riding the brake.
Or should I just leave it alone.
Options:
1) Put good brake pads like HAWK on the LF,RR,LR and putting stock pads on the RF
2) Grinding down the RF pad so there's less pad than the 3 other corners.
3) Using and Hiding a RF brake shut off when rules don't allow them.
These help the car turn when applying brakes but still provides 4 brake stopping power. I never liked 3 wheel brakes when they were really needed for bad situations. It literally turns the car into a spin on straight aways and corning when applied HARD! 3 wheel brakes are great for setting the car but for all other situations it's bad! In many rules, 4 braking system is required.
Just curious about the 3 vs 4 brake setup. At our track we can run with a shut off valve for the front right. I an going to run with the 4 brake option but am curious as to what is best for wet and dry tracks. Ours is banked and most of the time our track is going to be dry slick with a narrow groove in 1 and 2 and a little wider for 3 and 4. I like to charge the corner hard, use as little brake as possible and then off them and on the gas. We run hoosier f40 slicks and is fun when it gets dry.
3 or 4 brake for this condition?
Thanks
Russ
4 brakes...3 brakes will get the rear-end sliding on entry and on a dry slick track it will be a handful! In most cases 3 wheel brakes on a slick track will hinder you than help. On slick tracks I'm putting more brake to the front with my brake bias.
Todd is right, I had 3 wheel brakes on my Camaro. If I had to jam the brakes it would pull so hard to the left it would twist the car. My Monte I run now has 4 wheel brakes with front/rear bias control. Ill never got back to 3 wheel.
There are other ways to get the bias you desire:
I run an oversized caliper on the left front and an undersized on the right. It still allows for left/right bias but gives the 4 wheel stability. I also run standard size on the rears. Some say different size lines effect bias as well, not sure though I never tried. #3 I guess give more applied pressure to the caliper, while #4 gives more volume to the caliper.
In #2 if you're just changing the thickness it won't make a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddSmith16
However, if you're talking about changing the end-to-end, top-to-bottom dimensions then I can see it.
We run the speedway pads and grind a little off the RF. It pulls a little to the left but not extreme. I would never run with only 3.
I ran my front brakes like this. Stock pads cut down so there was only a 2" square of pad left in the center of the backing plate. They never came apart if you are worried about that. Worked great. Had hawk black pads in the back. We found a ballance that worked for us. Cheep way to try some Bias.Quote:
Originally Posted by RACEMAN
Dave
Have some guys been running a brake bias adjuster in the front brakes to provide some adjust-ability? And I'm meaning left side to right side, not front to rear. Seems to me I've seen that mentioned somewhere.
I ran for years with only one rear brake... less unsprung weight and it still stops both rear wheels.