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we ran down there for the schonfield 10000 to win. Ran the 30 45 and they run the tire pressures high i do belive. Yeah the one inch blocks almost groved to the cords. Then they sipped each block. We took a four spring car down there with a stout 355 with a 500 holley. They run big cubic inchs and 500 holleys and mostly leaf spring cars. Make sure you make practice and time in good cause that time lap means alot. There is alot of bite in the track all night. i am thinking they ran tire pressures like twenty on lefts and high twentys or low thirtys on right due to the soft side walls. and the tack track. Moody runs a tight ship down there was a real nice time down there but that was about 7 years ago.
I used to run them on my Istock...
For grooving, On the fronts I would just cut grooves, 5 or 6 per tire, that go around the circumference of the tire. Seemed to work pretty good.
On the rears depend on the track. Goes slick I would groove about 40%, leaving big blocks about 2 inch square. Pretty much copy an unaltered sprint car tire. Lots of siping helps...LOTS. Groove the sidewalls up, well...down around the edge of the tire about an inch, helps the tire get down to good surface instead of running on marbles. Also, if you get some newer ones grinding them helps a lot just before the feature, I always used a 16 grit sanding disc on a buffer, NOT a grinder, and keep the speed down on it. If you create smoke, your grinding too fast and heat cycling the tire...defeating the purpose of grinding it.
For tacky and really abrasive tracks I would groove about 75% of the tire, and make about 1 inch or smaller squares. Made them just small enough so that they would not chunk out. Really groove the sidewalls good on these too.
I always ran 15-17RR, 13-16LR, and 16-18 in the fronts, but that was on a non beadlock wheel.
And, you'll give up a lot of traction compared to G-60's...but they come alive when its shiny slick if you can get/keep them warmed up.
Its really a toss up, on tacky their decent with a lot of grooves.
But on slick you have to get them good and hot, and grind them about every race to keep the edges sharp, and fresh rubber.
To think of it, we ran a lot more rear steer with the take offs than we do with the g60's, but we also changed a bunch on the car so that might not be a variable.
just remember 10 inchs always hook up more then then 8 inchs. So yeah ponies always mean alot when your trying to turn a ten inch tire.
We did Enid in 08, and had cut small blocks like Dirt Bozz's in most of ours, but the team next to us who'd won it a couple of times, cut only huge blocks out, like 6" squares
the front runners laid back till about 10 to go to save the tires, and even ran through the infield mud under yellow to cool them
those guys down in enid are ridiculous when it comes to racing...a couple came up for a 40 lap special show we had here and ran great...until their tires went away. Then us with the g60's could outrun them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hogracer3d
Grooving is the key to making these tires work, have a highly abrasive track like the one I run on most the time and those take offs just get destroyed once they get hot. The g60's hold up cause they can keep cool, or just dont get as hot or sticky.
Another thing to think about with these "take off slicks" or "asphalt pulloffs" is once they take em or pull them OFF the shelf then they are "take offs" or "pulloffs"!!!
Lots of guys buy brand new tires (at $130+) and I don't care what they have to durometer, the new ones at better!!
Also, there is a big advantage to knowing what to do to them and when to do it. Siping, grooving (small blocks or big), grinding after each race etc.
Most of the asphalt tires have a hard sidewall also, so car will take a total different set up
i run take offs and i like to grove them with the blue masking tape around the tire so like 3/4 inch squares and if your running on a dirt track then i would start at 7 psi in the lf 9-10 lr 11-12 rr and 13-14 rf non beadlocks also side groves go to the side wall line and sipe the tires to keep them cool and last longer grinding tires help a lot when the track slicks over but the tires will go away by the end so i dont do it because the tires wont last as long, but if only a few races a year on them then grind away
FYI. Siping the tire allows the rubber to rub and creates friction that creates heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by dillon_94
Exactly the opposite from what i understand.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Egoracing
according to hoosier sipes help the tire get to operating temp quicker and then help dissipate heat once up to temp.
Older info always said that the sipes cooled the tire. There is little to no air that is getting between the 2 rubber faces that you create when you sipe a tire, all that is happening is the tires rubber compound rubs together which increases heat. A cut allows track dirt and air movement which will cool the tire. This is why we sipe hard tires, it makes them warm up faster to get them working. If it just got them to temperature and then cooled them we would be siping medium and softer tires but if you do you burn them off, all you do on soft is cut them. Try this, sipe an area of one tire and go run it. When you come off the track quickly check the temp of the tire on the non siped area and the siped area, the siped area will be hotter.Quote:
Originally Posted by rubbinsracin
The "pull-offs" are all we can run here in the south. The Texas, Arkansas, and Louisiana tracks only allow these tires. We usually run about 1 inch blocks with sipes in them and we scuff them, but we only run 20 lap features. We run any where from 10-12 lf, 6-8 lr, 14-15 rf, and 8-10 rr, but the track gets very dry slick and is a very tight quarter mile. The Batesville track is a lot bigger and takes rubber. Just about every car that runs there are on leaf springs. I don't think a coil spring car has ever won the big race they have every year ?
What brand are you running?
We have to run Hoosier's and they have to be 2045, F40, and/or F45's on the rear. We can run any number on the front, but they have to be Hoosier's.