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I have a gotten my car to work fairly well, but from the center off it feels like I have no steering control, it just wants to push up the track. I've tried more static weight on the RF, less wedge, more wedge, still wants to knock the wall down on exit. Otherwise the car is hooked and haulin'. any pointers?
Try adding more stagger.
what size/rate springs on all 4 corners ?...drum or disc rear brakes ?...what are your scale #'s ?..type tires?... psi ?..type of track, dry slick.etc.etc...need a lil more info to comment and give you possibly a good opinion on how to help or its like shooting in the dark with no scope.Quote:
Originally Posted by buterbaughb1
I would do these basic things, in this order. Unknowns be dammed. Remember,1 change at a time.
Less rear percentage. (If you're over 54% now)
Make sure your Left % is not over 53%.
More camber and set toe-out to 1/4'' to 3/8''.
Soften RF spring.
Stiffen RR Spring.
Use more stagger, if under 2''
Some of the more vague info is:
51.7% rear
52.4% left
200 lb split across the front (spring rates)
50 lb split across the rear (spring rates)
camber is -4.5 on rf
toe is 3/8 out
running anywhere from 1/4" to 1 1/2" of stagger, the more slick, the less stagger (seems to have worked so far)
Car wasn't too unruly on a dry slick track which was the case for the first few races, then mother nature decided to help out and keep the dust down and the track is staying heavy. Were usually the first feature, and its when the track is in between starting to slick off and bitey, the car starts throwing a temper tantrum.
Track is a big 1/2 mile. Mildly banked, good clay(for our area). Using 28.5 American Racers on a 10 in. wheel. discs all the way around with bias adjuster.
Check your axles, we had one do the same thing and no adjustment helped. Finally figured out that the right axle had twisted and would quit pulling when hard on the gas resulting in the car shooting up the track. Just an idea
what angle are you running the lower control arms at,(rear)
Make sure the differential is square to the centerline of the car first, before starting to make any changes. Just because it is bolted to factory brackets will not mean it is straight. If it is not straight you will still be chasing you tail no matter what good adjust the other threads have posted.
Chased my tail till I figured it out, then adjustment will work.
Mike
26B owner driver
good point same thing happened to us.Quote:
Originally Posted by 26-62 racing
ensure the RF shock is not bottoming out.
thanks for all the helpful advice. Is there any amount of tolerance in the differential being square to the chassis? I'm a firm believer in the small adjustments, so i'll sift through the checklist.
As for rf shock, its a straight 5, and the travel marker is right in the middle of the stroke when the car is parked. And I have tons of brake. Switched to wilwood pads, they are awesome.
Not sure on my lower angles, never took the time to write them down. I made my own brackets on a waterjet, they are pretty long, and is in the bottom hole on the left side and middle hole on the right side.
When we set our rear ends square in the car it we try make them 90 degree to the centerline, the last one I set up for my car was 1/16'' out from left side to right side. Car drives fine. To start with I would also not put any offset in the rear end from side to side. Center the rear end right to left from the centerline.
Just a thought, the lower trailing arm brackets, when you made them, are the bolt hole made in an arch for the swing motion of the trailing arm. Or the bolt holes straight. If they are straight when you raise or lower the lower arms the axle housing will be pulled out of square. Just some thoughts on what we have found hope this helps.
Mike
26B owner driver