Brake pedal to the floor

New line, new fluid about 15 races ago.

What is every little thing that i can look for to find the reason my brakes failed to work once up to speed????? Pedal went to the floor, but the wall stopped me, but when i drove back to the pits they worked.

Havent looked at anything as of now. I plan to check the rear hubs to see if they are lose.

Master Cylinders are probably 7 years old but get flushed out over the winter.

Give me anything you can think of that i can check!

Thanks

I know someone who had that problem going into a turn, he hit the clutch by mistake, the wall stopped him also.

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Originally Posted by Dirtrunner35

I know someone who had that problem going into a turn, he hit the clutch by mistake, the wall stopped him also.

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Yeah the first time you drive a car w/ the brake and clutch reversed can be expensive

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Originally Posted by powerslide

Yeah the first time you drive a car w/ the brake and clutch reversed can be expensive

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Ouch....im sure i hit the right pedal

I have had it that on high spped tracks i have to pump the brakes going down the straights just to make sure they will be there, thats why im hoping its my rear hubs being lose and at the high speeds the rotor is pushing the pads away

Thanks for the replys, i just need a reminder on what all to look for just so i dont overlook anything

are you running a brake floater? That could push the piston back in.

yes....brake floater on LR

my bet is the 7 yr old master cylinders.
Replace them!

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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt

my bet is the 7 yr old master cylinders.
Replace them!

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i agree......

floor mount or hanging pedals? If you have floor mount try putting in residual (sp) valves, they keep the brake pressure up

Do you bleed your brakes regularly? Sounds like you have some moisture in your fluid. Bleed the brakes every couple of weeks you should be fine. On asphalt you MUST bleed the brakes every week or that problem will arise. Good luck

Why? It's supposed to be a sealed system.

Brake fluid by nature absorbes moisture. When you start using the brakes alot, say in the feature, that moisture will get hot and boil in the brake line. This is why your pedal goes to the floor but once the brakes cool down they are fine again. This is the reason they have brake fluid recirculaters and such.

Just went through this myself. Replace the master cylinders!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by stock car driver

I also never used the brakes like I do now racing on dirt, dirt gets them way way hotter even in a heat race.

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I've never seen glowing rotors on a dirt car other then supers on some larger tracks and then only going into the corner but you can see them every saturday night at the local asphalt track in many classes get hot enough to glow all the way around the track.
Was told by a LONG time race winner once that if you are not using your brakes hard on asphalt, you are not going fast enough!.

As to the problem, I would replace the master cylinders. Then get new unopened fluid and bleed the whole system out with the new stuff. If you topped it off with fluid that was in the shop you added water.

One of the mags did a test several years ago and found that if you open a bottle of fluid, break the seal, close it tight and put it on the shelf. At 40-60% humidity it only took a few weeks for it to absorbe enough moisture to create a dangerous condition by causing system failure when used.

I NEVER use fluid from an open bottle, it is to cheap to take a chance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Egoracing

As to the problem, I would replace the master cylinders. Then get new unopened fluid and bleed the whole system out with the new stuff. If you topped it off with fluid that was in the shop you added water.

One of the mags did a test several years ago and found that if you open a bottle of fluid, break the seal, close it tight and put it on the shelf. At 40-60% humidity it only took a few weeks for it to absorbe enough moisture to create a dangerous condition by causing system failure when used.

I NEVER use fluid from an open bottle, it is to cheap to take a chance.

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Wow, did not know this. Thanks!! I did find a rotor very slightly bent, next im going to replace the masters and get some new fluid. havnt been back on track since the problem occured so i dont know if its just the rotor or more but i think ill just replace the masters and be done with it.

Thanks all

Hey Chris , had the same problem a few years back and found a rotor that was warped. Going down the straight for a length of time will push a piston back in the caliper and when stepping on the brakes you'll have a soft pedal

Make sure your rear springs aren't getting against the caliper. I did some bracket changes on a car and tore the rf off 3 times before I figured out what was happening. I had mounted the rr spring too close to the caliper and when entering the turn it would push the piston in. On next corner, no rear brakes.

Hi dear i am replacing the brake pads on my Toyota Corolla and I need to know which ones are the best and will last the longest. There are carbon metalic brake pads, duralast gold, valucraft, or morse ceramic. Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks.

I think the best brake pads that might really perform well in your car will be of Greedy and Sparco...... i have been using the Sparco and the greedy parts for like 2 years and i must say these parts would really work on any car if you could handle them nicely.


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