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What type of radiator besides the kind that holds water(LOL) would you guys recommend?Single pass,double pass and what brand.I'm sure this will get a few diff opinions but looking for a idea to head down the right rode.What about pulley system...1:1 or some reduction?Thanks for any and all help.Rick
Go to Stewart's Pumps website and read the FAQ's and Tech tips. Tons if factual info and no BS.
Single pass (i like Northern Cooling radiators) GOOD fitting shroud, good fan 17-19" that fits the shroud perfect (dia, and depth). 1-1 pulleys, stewart stage 3 pump, nothing in the water outlet, and screen 5-6" in front of the radiator to block the mud. The screen needs to be big enough to flow good air but small engough to block the dirt. I like to use two layers of 1/4" screen off set. Then clean the radiator core out every week.
Two weeks ago it was 100* and dew points in the high 60's at the time of hot laps. Temp was still 85* at 10:30 after the feature. My motor was 190* after the feature. Eric
We ran the same setup on a crate and larger motors and not a single issue even with testing during the day in Fl and track temps over 100.Quote:
Originally Posted by SRXSRULE
We have 604 crate with a 26" double pass radiator, 1to1 pulleys, KRC pump (Stewart Stage 3 OEM), no shroud, fan 1 inch from radiator and the motor hasn't been over 195 even with the heat we have had around here. This past weekend it was still in the mid-80s at feature time. We ran 18 straight laps and there was a caution. Looked down and it was at 180.
Our system could be better but the good pump and keeping the fan close to the radiator compensate for the double pass (not all they're cracked up to be) and lack of shroud.
agree----fan distance --fan --pump---can make make up for alotQuote:
Originally Posted by Matt49
something else to watch is belt tension----if the belts are slipping --you will get hot
Forgot to add it is a regular ol' 19" 4-blade GMQuote:
Originally Posted by brad hibbard
Lately we have been recommending a system that C&R makes. I've been running it on my own car since the beginning of this season, testing to make sure it's something that I'd recommend to my customers. It's the Dirt Late Model Pressurized Cooling System from C&R. It's not the cheapest set-up in the world, but it's a lot cheaper than a burned up engine and the repair costs involved. Here is a link to their installation video on youtube..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSG37vjU3S4
The benefits of this system that we have found through testing on the track, and the chassis dyno on my own car is as follows......
1. The boiling point in the cooling system has been raised high enough to safely run a 604 in the 240-250 degree range without fear of pushing water, which allows air to replace water in the system, creating steam pockets, and ultimately leading to engine failure (i.e. Blown head gaskets, warped heads, burned or galled pistons, bearing failure from detonation, etc) .
2. When cars are dropping out of races because of over heating, we are still running.
3. HP & Toque Increases: This system has ultimately led us to be able to run either the 2 blade 18" fan that we use, or the 15" 4 blade fan that we use. Before we would use the smaller fan early in the night, and swap to the larger fan for a main event. This system has allowed us run the smaller fan or the two blade fan all night, regardless of outside air temps, freeing up RW horse power and torque, which is an advantage over those who must run a 19" GM fan to stay cool. We have also seen power gains on some race fuels, because we can now run a little more ignition timing since the entire cooling system is pressurized and steam pockets can not be created in the combustion chamber area.
4. We have been able to do all of this and make these gains with C&R's single pass 36mm core radiator that comes in the kit. This has removed about 6-7lbs of nose weight off of my car.
In short, I highly recommend this system! The cost is far offset by the advantages.
240-250* is considered GOOD? Sure its not pushing water out but its killing the HP running that hot. How much RWHP do you loose on the dyno between 190* and 250*? I know my 602 looses 30hp at 230* compared to 190*
I would gladly add 15 lbs of cooling system weight to the front of my car to drop my temps 50* in the closing lap of the feature.
steve never said he runs his motor 250 degrees. he said you can run that high without pushing out water. think of it more as a failsafe IF you do run that hot.
Actually with this system and the thinner 36mm core, using the 2 blade 18" fan which only takes 4-5rwp away, I'm seeing consistent engine temps that are much lower than our conventional set-up. The nice part is having the ability to finish races if we do run into a heating issue, and not hurt the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by SRXSRULE
If you're losing 30rwhp with only a 40* temp gain, I'd say you have a few issues that need correcting. I've never tested 190* - 230*, but we've tested at 10* increments up to 220*. The only time I've seen power losses greater than 10rwhp is when the air intake system is not breathing outside atmosphere, and is sucking up hot air from under the hood (usually radiator heat from the fan, headers heat, etc.).