Running a 4 bar car with biscuit pull bar when track slicks over a lot we cant get traction. Is the spring bar better in the slick for forward bite?
How about the adjustable hydraulic pull bars are they worht the money if they are legal?
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Running a 4 bar car with biscuit pull bar when track slicks over a lot we cant get traction. Is the spring bar better in the slick for forward bite?
How about the adjustable hydraulic pull bars are they worht the money if they are legal?
both the spring and bars work well you just need to adjust the rate of them for the track. With the biscuit pull bar you will need to replace the biskets often. What biscuit bar are you running? Small or large?
They both are good or bad. A pullbar is a very small part of what makes traction. If the pullbar is right and a few other things ( springs, shocks, weight percentages, engine torque curve, carb linkage, drivers foot, stagger, etc.) arent right, the pullbar wont make a difference. People put too much emphasis on pullbars and overlook a lot of ather more important stuff. A pullbar that is too soft is no good. A pullbar that is stiff enough will get you 80 % of what you need. A bushing pullbar is more progressive than a spring bar, and therefore doesnt allow as much travel. Angle, length and left to right placement are all fine tuning adjustments, but wont hook up a car that isnt somewhat hooked up already. Biscuit type pullbars need the bushings replaced on a regular basis, they do go bad and lose traction. A spring that has coil bound on a pullbar also goes bad. A solid bar with no spring or rubber will give you enough traction to win if everything else is right. My advice is to make sure what you have is right, and spend your money on tires, rather than buying the latest greatest marketed part.. If a guy bought everything he could that was supposed to give him 2 tenths here, and 3 tenths there, he would be running laps faster than zero seconds.
Agree with Heavy Duty. I've run both and could'nt tell any real difference. Also, for me, on dry slick throttle control is the biggest part of hooking up a car, IF everything else is set up correctly .JMO
I just use the regular rubber ford strut rod bushing on the brake side. I think tuning the brake side with different bushings might be hard to feel. They are only gonna move 3/8 to a 1/2 inch no matter what bushing you have.I think that there are a whole lot more effective ways to tune entry. I think guys are doing that to sell pullbars. I might be proven wrong but I like working where the gains or losses are more noticeable. When you are working with little things, it is hard to tell if the change made it better or worse or if the track changed.
Don't mean to hijack the thread but have a question that kinda fits the topic. Does the 90/10 or whatever valving one chooses shock have any different effects when moved side to side on the chassis and rearend? I've never ran a shock above the pull bar but last race of the season the pull bar mount broke out of the chassis causing a ton of damage. I'm thinking the top shock would have helped prevent this so I'm putting one on just not sure where to mount it side to side. Thanks for any help.
I would center it the best you can. it does make some differance but nothing like moving the pullbar left or right.
If car is working on tacky track couldnt you just put in a round of bite into the car? Sometimes 2 sometimes three? Assuming one round in the car is approximately è0lbs.
I think he is talking about putting some rounds in the lr to add bite.
I see, thanks.
give details about your car