What is the best way to get the tube out of the bell? Best way to re-install the tube into the bell? ~Thanks~
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What is the best way to get the tube out of the bell? Best way to re-install the tube into the bell? ~Thanks~
For installing, the best and most common way is to warm the bell up, and cool the tube. The bell doesn't have to be hot by any means, 200-250 deg should be plenty. The colder the tube the better, a bucket with ice in it, or if it'll fit in the freezer will work too. Once the bell is warm, and tube is cold, the tube will just drop right in. Be sure to hold some pressure down as the temps even out. The tube will be solid in there in 30 seconds or so.
Removing is a bit trickier. The best way I've found is to stand the tube upright and spray some penetrating lube around the tube, letting it soak into the bell. I personally use Kroil, that stuff is awesome.
After you give it a few sprays and it's set for a few hours you can move onto the next step.
I have a plate I drilled a hole in for the tube to go down. Then I built a push block that fits in the hole of the bell, and pushes against the lip of the axle tube. Use a press and it'll come out pretty easy. I've also seen some guys do a similar idea using the plate, and pulling the tube out with an engine hoist. This method was a little scary but seemed to work.
With out a press I would imagine it'd be difficult. Might be worth taking it to a machine shop and having them press it out quick.
I must have got lucky last year when I did mine, just wamed the bell with a torch and the tube slipped out, and warmed it up again and slid the new tube in, that is how Tiger rear ends told me to do it and it worked, might want to try that first and see if you get lucky too.
I've used the engine hoist method to remove and did it with both a steel and aluminum tube. We wound up cracking the snout on one of the aluminum tubes with this method.
Basically get a 2" or 3" exhaust clamp and put a chain on it and then put it on the snout. Run a spindle nut (prefer steel) down all the way and then pull the clamp up to the bottom of the spindle nut and tighten it down. I've used lug nuts as spacers on it to get it to tighten down correctly with the 3" clamp.
Bolt the bell down to a 1x6 or 1x8 that is long enough to fit under the legs of the engine hoist. Hook the chain up to the hook and start lifting the hoist. When there is tension on it start to heat the bell. start from the bottom and work your way around and then start moving up. Put a little more tension on it as you heat but be careful. This is where the snout can crack on aluminum tubes. It takes some time but it will eventually pop all of a sudden so watch your face. Have someone ready to crank on the engine hoist when it does pop so it won't catch the very end of it and hold on.
Looking back, for aluminum tubes I may just pay someone to push them out next time. Less risk of cracking.
this is how ive done it for years also on all types, how ever i saw a mag bell bust doing this, winters said that the torch tip was to concentrated and to hot to quick, since then i use a good heat gun with a homemade nozzle that reduces it down to 3/4 ".Quote:
Originally Posted by TALON75
Thanks guys, ended up taking it to a local speed shop. It was supposed to take about an hr but ended up being 1 1/2 because of the axle still being in it and having some extras done. this included drilling and tapping all holes and removing/installing bird cages and brake mount...$75 labor and many hrs saved for me(I dont have a torch either).
~Thanks~
I use a small bottled propane torch to heat mine. Don't have a torch either