Camaro push mid corner

I run a 79 camaro street stock on a fast 3/8 dirt oval, both tracks have decent banking and are generally dry slick. I have run taller ball joints however I have noticed that my camber curve from ride height to 4 in of travel and gained almost 4 1/2 deg of negative camber in that amount of travel. When I went back to stock length the camber gain was minimal wich helped out quite a bit but I still have a bit of a push. If I try to get on gas only a little it will loosen up but so much it kills my off corner. I have had a lot of success in the years I have been racing. But this one has left me scratching my head. The car does not seem to roll much on the RR and rolls a lot on the RF.I have tried lowering/adding LR bite, stagger, cross ECT. We cannot add weight, no spring spacers or weight jacks. Springs as follows LF 1000 RF1200 LR225 RR200. Any help is appreciated

Other info RF camber/castor -4 deg +4 deg LF +1 1/2 camber +2 cas. 3/8 to 1/2 in toe out

Check that the r/f isn't bottoming out.With a tight car you can have the front wheels turned so much, that when you hit the throttle it will make it jump loose.I would put a 1100 in the r/f.Next check the front to rear track alignment,r/r tire should be at least 1'' in side the r/f,l/r at least ''1 outside l/f

Thanks for the reply. I have confirmed that I am not bottoming out from the zip tie I have on the RF shock shaft and no paint chipped on lowers or frame. I replaced the RF spring back to a 1200 had other spring checked and it was about 100 off (1100) this did help quite a bit and my travel has come back the right way. I do check square just about every week. I have tried to skew the rear end both different ways just to see what it did. It was a huge difference so I always run it square.

What are your scale numbers?

LF 802 ,RF 817, LR 887, RR 714, BITE 173, 49.8 rear, 52.9 cross

driver in car or out with those numbers?

are you driving car in corner straight, and picking up the throttle before car is rotated, or at least center of corner?

Do you let completely out of throttle on entry?
have you added just a small amount of stagger in rear?
have you taken any anti-dive out of LF upper a arm mounts?
have you softened both front springs?
have you soften the lf spring only?

49.8% rear and you are pushing? How much stagger are you running, what variations have you tried? Same with cross. And how much banking does the track have, decent doesn't explain much.

Some things I should go over. No lead or added weight.cannot change stock mounting locations. I do consider myself a smooth and consistent driver.i never "throw it in" I do all my braking straight line and I'm back in the gas before mid corner( if it's not pushing). Track is almost always dry slick for main. I'm always easy in the corner to be fast out.Both tracks I race at are all about off the corner speed WICH translates to a good mid corner car to get you out. I feel as if I'm always waiting for the rear end to "rotate" the middle. I usually run 1 in stagger across rear in main. Scale numbers are w/driver, I'm afraid to go much lower on spring rate for I'm very close to bottoming out already. I have always run a 200 split across front. One thing I have wondered. The car we have built is very " stiff" by design. mabey that may have something to do with this? Banking in track varies but I would between 15-25 deg. I have tried about 51 cross WICH helped but killed some off corner bite been all the way up to a high 53 cross WICH was way tight. Thanks for the replys and questions

I would remove every once of weight from the front tires forward that I could.53% would be ideal but i would get 51% if I had to build a fuel cell can from 1/4 plate.A stiff car will have a narrow sweet spot but be faster when you hit it.One thing that doesn't seem right is that you had a 1100 r/f spring.Switched to a 1200 and it was better.A Heavier spring should have made tighter.

It's funny you mention that about the spring. This car has seemed to defy logic since day one. But I didn't mention that the old RF spring was rated at 1200 but checks to about 1100 and its 2 seasons old hyperco. Tech at my tracks are pretty tough. It's one thing winning the race, the hard parts passing tech! 1/4 in plate just won't fly. The front is as light as I'm comfortable going. Mostly .083 wall 1.25 tubing and not much of it. The only thing keeping me from softer front springs is I'm almost bottoming out just on entry already. I look at pictures of my car on entry and mid corner. The front end is laying way over on RF. But the rear does not seem to have the same attitude. Wich correct me if I'm wrong, may be overloading the RR on entry? So I'm going to change my RR spring from a 200 to a 175 to try and match my roll angle front to rear.

Not enough stagger in the rear. You should try to get 2-3". Then if it loosens up your entry too much, you can stiffen up LF 50-100lbs.

Yup, agree with drt, if you have that much banking, not enough stagger.

Thanks for the replys

my leaf car pushed whenever I needed new rear leafs.... about every 3-4 nights max

you wont bottom out if you put a 1000 in the rf the stiffer spring gets the weight with 200 split your lf isn't getting much.

It's rated comp/reb 5/3. It's new and has been checked very recently

I would put a NEW pair of 200 springs for the rear. And get 2-3 inch stagger for the rear. Leafs don't like 100+ bite. Tune the roll with the LF shock.

:UPDATE: I went to a practice Wednesday night. Track was black the last 3 sessions.Changed a few things. Went to a 175 rr and a 200 LR. Opened up stagger across rear to 2 in., wow, what a difference. This thing is driveable now. But as always I have a bit more to tweak on, the entry and middle is excellent, now I just need a bit more forward. Thanks all for the advice

Glad to hear it's shaping up, get some more rear weight and keep us updated!