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were thinking about trying a different chassis next season . one of the chassis we are looking at is the victory chassis . just wondering what there baseline setup looked like and peoples opinion of this this chassis and there tech support. thanks in advance
^ not only is that wrong...its idiotic
Before you continue to make an a.s.s. out of yourself, Hughesracing9 has more wins than you can think of. Some include "big show" and he doesn't spend as much as most people think they should. He has knowledge because he listens and knows people. Contrary to what you "think", some people are willing to share their knowledge without charging.
BTW, Chevelle clips are not any more expensive than metrics. It cost X amount of dollars to buy or build a car, but I'm guessing that you have no clue about either.
im just wondering why youre on the soap box about spending money....poster didnt ask anything about money, cost, parts, shocks, racing school, calling shock builders, emailing you for advice.....geeeez
To the OP, with Moyer at Victory, Im sure there is plenty of information to go around, and thats free info if you have one of the chassis (duh)
Wow that's one way of getting someone excited about trying something new.. like Hughes said there are people willing to share some of their wealth of knowledge, if your willing to pay attention and not go into this thinking you already know it all.. good luck to ya
All the guy asked was what there baseline set up was, he never did say anything about getting the magic set up that was going to go out run Rodney nor Jason with.. plus, if you knew anything about getting a car from a chassis builder they will give you a base to start off with. I am sure he is fully aware by now that speed cost money. Then again you just might be surprised with what all types of racing I have been involved with as well.
Chevelle or metric cost the same to build done both the parts are available for both still. And i have won with the base setup from bms several times. Victorys are good cars the biggest thing in mods is listening to 1 person that has the experience with these cars not 10 different people.
I have dirtracer blocked... without even reading his posts I can guess he is just spewing b.s to get a rise out of you guys. He is here for nothing more, he has proven that since he created that user name. Look at his past posts, he spent a few months asking stupid beginner questions then started argue with the very same people who had the patience to answer his dumb questions. Now he only posts to get a rise. Use the ignore feature and move on.. When he creates another user name he will be easy to spot and ignore again.
DirtRacer9x DirtRacer9x is online now
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Default Set ups track to track?
Well just found this forum and hopefully it's full of good advice and helpful people. But as my first post I'm wondering what most do from track to track. From 1/4 mile to 1/2 mile and tacky to dry. Our Shaw car we've gotten away from the base set up and had greater success on 1/4 mile but not much time on 3/8 to 1/2 with it. Currently we run 700-750 rf and 600 LF. Rears usually a 200 lr and been bouncing from 175-225 RR. The shaw book says to keep usually 600s in front but we went to 700-750 rf to help turn / rotate car and have the added drive off. It's working well. But I've heard other had success with lighter spring as low as 400-550 in rf. now racing a bigger track and dry should we go lighter to take this pivoting away from rf that I believe that's going on? I know shocks play a huge part in car too but I'll start with spring ideas and opinions and hopefully why so I understand. Thanks!
Looks like youre trying to get good advice for free....