Steamin' Hot!

Our new car is overheating. 2016 Barry Wright. The motor never got hot in our GRT, but now does. I understand with the front nose basically sitting on the groud during racing, we have limited air flow getting to the radiator, but good downforce. Pulleys are 1 to 1. We run water with antifreeze, and coolant additive. Built a shroud, still gets hot. Single pass radiator, I've tried double pass before in other cars, but didn't notice any difference. 19" fan blade. I'm really trying to do everything to keep from cutting holes in the nose. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Are you running the same water pump? Does the new car have a different radiator? Have you changed the restriction in the thermostat housing? Something must have changed, just trying help you nail it down.

the shroud can make it worse if not done right and what are you running in front of it

Same radiator (Speedway single pass), same water pump, no restrictor. Tried a thermostat restrictor once, didn't seem to help. I think the shroud helped a little. The biggest difference between the two cars is the GRTs nose was a little up in the air, while the Barry Wright is running basically on the track. I understand it's the way it's supposed to be, but with all the other cars "looking" the same way, wondering why they don't get hot? I really appreciate the ideas. Gotta figure this out.

Howard Stewart only recommends turning the water pump 7500 rpms max. You probly need to put a set of reduction pulleys on it.

Is your fan a 4 blade GM?

Was a Speedway 19" blade. Ordered the GM 4 blade yesterday(ridiculously expensive), hoping it helps.

If you can grab the fan and turn it , your belts are slipping, and I would guess your pulleys are worn. V belts all slip, thats why 1 to 1 works better than reduction to help compensate for the slip. I went to serpentine and 20% reduction (No more slip, and no more cooling problems)

Dave

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Originally Posted by Racer96m

If you can grab the fan and turn it , your belts are slipping, and I would guess your pulleys are worn. V belts all slip, thats why 1 to 1 works better than reduction to help compensate for the slip. I went to serpentine and 20% reduction (No more slip, and no more cooling problems)

Dave

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I agree with the Dave on the serpentine. I switched to a reduction serp. setup and temps came down. I was not overheating, but it was nice to see a cooler temps, and it frees up a smidge of power not spinning that 19" GM prop as fast.

Do you have any thing at the bottom in front of the radiator. I was having cooling problems and put a pc. of plastic at the bottom of radiator. Made kind of a inverted spoiler that would scoop air from under car and into radiator. Temps went from over 230 in a heat race to under 200 in the feature on same night.

http://www.race-fan.com/
These fans pull a ton of air and you can change the number of blades to tune for your application. The 3 blade version will pull more air than your 4 blade 19" steel fan.

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Originally Posted by UltimateRaceCars

http://www.race-fan.com/
These fans pull a ton of air and you can change the number of blades to tune for your application. The 3 blade version will pull more air than your 4 blade 19" steel fan.

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that's A great idea.

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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt

that's A great idea.

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X2!.....You could even shim it to fine tune it!

Had an issue with car switch there was a small difference in radiator heights which got us into a little bit of a problem with temp. Raised new one up to match old set up heat issue went away

like renegade said, make sure your getting all the air out of system, I used a bleed valve on top of thermostat housing to bleed , did have a rad that was good at end of season and didn't work at beginning of next, also make sure timing is right and fuel system not to lean , there two of the biggest culprits, hope it helps

If the nose of car is pinned completely down to the track to where no air can go under at all it doesn't matter what you do. The best fan, shroud or whatever is just going to pull a vacuum like void behind the nose because no air can get there.

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Originally Posted by scott43racing

If the nose of car is pinned completely down to the track to where no air can go under at all it doesn't matter what you do. The best fan, shroud or whatever is just going to pull a vacuum like void behind the nose because no air can get there.

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A vacuum like void, tell me more about this. Will it draw the nose of the car down more and create down force?

How long/laps does it take to get hot. Get a new rad before going any further, they are a disposable item. We use at least 2 per season. Adding an overflow expansion tank simplifies bleeding of air, or top off cold running every night.

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Originally Posted by CCHIEF

A vacuum like void, tell me more about this. Will it draw the nose of the car down more and create down force?

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I think your being funny! lol

U have to have 2 to 3 inches of clearnace when the car is completely in yaw from the nose to ground i just had the same problem my nose was completely sealed off and car would over heat then i raised it up to have 2.5 in of clearance at yaw it ran 205 all nite long solved it right awaypeople will beat there selves to death tryin to figure this out just get ur nose up a little it dont need to be all the way to the track