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Just thinking here. Instead of a sixth coil, would it not be better, traction wise, to use a brake snubber on top of the rear end, as a shock with a spring and/or rubber, or a telescopic snubber with no shock? It would push the rear end up, loading the rear but it would also take some weight off the rear springs and put some into the fronts.. What do you guys say? Is that way out to lunch? Has anyone tried that? Still used with a lift arm just not with a sixth coil.
Same premise as a 90/10 over top of the rear end? i see people still run one, i have heard it helps tighten entry.
I would think it could work, and maybe better.
JDM Pullbar solutions makes a Liftstick that replaces both and uses bushings, and a shock. Same premise as over over the rear end i guess.
Yeah it’s like a sliding tube with rubber or a spring in it. Opposite angle of what a pull bar would be. Pushes up on chassis during brake wrap which pushes the rear tires down. Could be used like a 9010 shock with bump stops on the shaft with some uphill angle. I saw those new JDM lift sticks. I built a pull bar was using some biscuits. I think what I’m gonna try is a half bushing half spring setup for a lift arm.Bushings initially for very brief smooth transition from unloaded to loaded, progression to build traction and then blow off the rate of the bushings using a spring. Not sure if it’ll be better or not but I’m gonna be putting it up close to the rear end, much closer than what we used to run, talking with a few guys and that seems to be something that’s gaining ground, moving the lift attachment closer to the back.You don’t really lose THAT much loading on the rear tires moving it back further, and it does help keep the front down. See how it all goes, but I was thinking of putting a snubber on instead of sixth coil. I’ve heard some say it kinda interferes with the roll over to the right, and can mess with side bite, but I think lateral placement, angle and rates used might change that, I dunno.
So your moving the attachment part aft? on a Lift arm?
Also you going to attach it closer to the axle CL while using a pull bar type set up or a 90/10 deal?
I like the sounds of a bushing / spring combo deal.
You better reconsider the brake bar/part and how it attached if I read that correctly, or be ready to spit out or over travel some U-joints/Driveshafts.
If the brake bar running backwards at an uphill angle to load the rear end on braking, as the car hikes the brake bar is going slack and if you dump the gas/brake hard with the car hiked up the rear end is going to pinion down a ton with all the slack in the brake bar. Also if you just have both bars with tension or no slack in them at ride hieght, push down on car and you will have to compress both of them to make the car go down. This is going to add spring rate to the back of the car and may happen at other heights depending on how it's all installed. You basically have the car in a bind at certain places on travels.
Also when the rear end pulls forward, it's also adding slack the brake bar further increasing the problem. Again how bad will be determined by how and where it's mounted. Even if you get it reasonable, good luck on using the rear brakes to tun the car if needed.
Oh no!!! Not backwards facing! Lol I meant opposite angle of a pull bar, uphill to front of rear end where a pull bar would mount on frame area, shooting upwards somewhat. Same deal as a brake floater but on top of rear end.Quote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
I have run something like this in a car before, not a late model, more like a pro stock/saloon style car equipped with a pull bar. Seemed to work good on it. Pull bar was on top of rear end running at regular angle and the snubber was higher than it, facing uphill almost opposite angle with some black biscuits looked like off a big truck or something lol. I was thinking maybe revisiting it, but allowing more lateral location adjustments and angle adjustments as well as length etc etc
Yeah the lift arm part will stay for on throttle traction, closer to the axle and rear of the car. That part will be the bushings on top of preloaded spring deal like the pull bars I’m making now for mods. Then instead of a coil over on the lift arm part, the shock I was thinking of moving on top of the rear end with bushings. Uphill from rear end into chassis in front. Opposite angle of how a pull bar would be mounted. That way the piece could be used to separate the axle and chassis adding traction on the rear on brakes. Worst case scenario like Billet said probably make it harder to turn car with brakes but there’s other adjustments that could be made to help free entry other than unloading the rear tires. Technically it would load the front tires a bit too if I am not mistaken.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kromulous