What am I missing about pulling motor with Brinn transmission?? Always a struggle to separate the two when pulling motor, have used mobil one and other grease when I install.
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What am I missing about pulling motor with Brinn transmission?? Always a struggle to separate the two when pulling motor, have used mobil one and other grease when I install.
I use anti-seize on the input shaft of my trans into the coupler (it's a Bert, but I wouldn't think it matters). Obviously "angle" is everything when separating the two, which can be hard to do with a cherry picker, or by yourself.
Are you sure it's the trans and not the dowels on the block causing the issue?
Check to see if splines in the flywheel are worn or the input shaft. We had trouble separating ours a time or 2 until I found flywheel splines were worn
You make it sound like even coming apart is a struggle so if that's the case this doesn't really apply:
Many blocks have too short of dowel pins in the block to go thru the mid plate very far if they are stock dowels or been driven in too far. So many times they only go thru the mid plate and barely into the bellhousing to align everything.
If that is the case when or if the trans was bolted/Secured/attached to the mid plate they may not be aligned correctly and will cause problems going back together. I always attach all 3 together with long dowels and then drill and tap the midplate for (2) 1/4-28 studs one on each side and use a nut on the bellhousing side to hold the trans in place. But if I need to pull the bellhousing to get to the flywheel still can.
As said angle is everything, sometimes the mid plate is put in some cars so the tail shaft is a little high so the motor is basically against the front motor mounts and you can't really get the motor low enough in the front to slide together. In these cases, I shim the lower holes on the midplate with a few washers or spacers so the trans leans down more and makes installing easier as the midplate will easily twist a few degrees once tightened up.
+1 from me too on anti seize on the input shaft
On a side note: Our RY45 Ford (they use a Chevy bellhousing pattern), they missed the distance on the dowel pins by .010 and you had to suck it together with the bolts and about impossible to separate them if you did suck it together with the bolts (no idea if all RY's are that way or not). So I had to drive the dowels out and make new ones offset and installed right to narrow the distance between the 2 by .010.
No idea if you have a similar problem, but easy to just check it by installing the bell up to the motor while out of car with no midplate and see if it fits too tight.
When I pull the engine I take the easy way.I pull the MID PLATE,Along with the Bellhousing,and Transmission, reinstall the same way.
This works really well. You can assemble everything on the bench or floor, including the oil pump, and just slide it into the car. The only problem I've run into is the weight of everyting hanging off the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazermod3
You might need to modify the engine lift plate to get everything to balance right.
I just unbolt the transmission and slide it out of the coupler before pulling the engine
This is the positive way to do it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltemodel