Hey guys sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm very new to late models. When scalding my car do I need to take all preload out of the 5th coil? And also remove lrf shock? I just wanna make sure I'm doing it right. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Hey guys sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm very new to late models. When scalding my car do I need to take all preload out of the 5th coil? And also remove lrf shock? I just wanna make sure I'm doing it right. Thanks in advance for the help.
Depends on what your setup provider wants you to do. Anymore, most just scale one time to get percentage set (rear and left)Quote:
Originally Posted by will34
I don't disable or change anything, but I'm not working on anyone else's instructions book either.
^^^ I agree...
Corner weights on modern Late Model set-ups are done on a spring smasher, so scaling (for most) has been diminished to checking left side %, tail %, and overall weight (for your minimum weight rule). I usually scale the car at the beginning of the season and maybe once or twice during.
Some chassis manufacturers say to take preload out of the 5th coil, but I never understood why. If it's preloaded, statically it's just counteracting the 6th coil (at least in my mind), and assuming a 4-bar rear suspension (the rearend is floating in birdcages), I'm not seeing what it would affect. If you were setting your corner weights on the scales, I could see an aggressive LRF shock adding bite, so you'd maybe want to remove it. In the end, it's whatever method your chassis manufacturer uses in getting the set-up numbers they recommend.
OK thank you both for the help I appreciate it. This is the first time I'm scaling the car so I can get my smash numbers as I do have a smash machine. I was just wondering if there was a preferred way to do it you guys answered that I'll get in touch with bwrc and see what they would like. I appreciate all the help since I'm learning as I go lol.
Im not am expert as a;ll my ,y reasoning is that scaling corner weights is a just a reference point for further fine tuning so as long as you do it the exact same way every single time it's fine.
I have a modified, built my own car, I don't do remove or disconnect anything other than ensure the rear tires aren't bound up from the stagger and spool in the rear end. Some like to pull the LR axle but I just pick up the car by the birdcage and slowly set it down on the scales and jiggle the car and give it 5 minutes for the shocks to bleed down and settle. I also work by myself so I don't use driver installed or add weight.
If following a chassis maker recommendations, I would do it their way.