Drivability Question For Bigger Drivers

Currently and in the past having issues getting car to handle with bigger driver. 2022 Longhorn crate, set up on Penske shocks. Car was gone through by Longhorn and set up ready to race with what I believe is the "standard" set up. The problem is car is extremely loose getting into the corner which of course ruins the middle and then the exit. Jbar all the way down in rear, second hole from bottom on chassis. 1" spacer on left rear, 3" of stagger. Car gets up on bars properly but when driver let's out of gas, car sits down 8-12" even with dummy shock. Dummy shock is currently set up on birdcage. My question is, what are some set up changes that should be done to compensate for a big driver. 6'3 and 300lbs. Should shocks be built differently taking that weight especially on the left side into consideration? Should I raise jbar up on chassis to get more side bite getting in? Less stagger? After the race, all tires were warm/hot except RF which is cool to the touch. I'm sure others have been in a situation where they have had a large driver and had to change normal set ups to accommodate. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Just a thought.
Is this a driver problem or a car problem? if he's letting the LR fall, not only does that make the car squirly going in off throttle and too brake to whoa it down might upset the car.
What happens if ou tell the driver to use the brake to keep the RF down and quit slowing down for the corners?

You might also try adding 100lbs low and on the right side and see what happens.
Sure, the car will weigh 100lbs more BUT, I've been standing at the scales for a lot of years and see al sorts of weights. At least on the local levels, 100lbs makes little difference. It might to Davenport or the like, but not too you and me.

I agree with what Lizardracing said. Keeping the car jacked up with throttle is critical on corner entry. If the driver dumps the throttle on entry, the car will lose rear stear and probably push on entry, and it will probably end up loose later in the corner. If the driver cannot trail brake on entry, you can try adding shock compression rate to the left rear, and if you do this, you will probably need more rf rebound rate. Also, the car may have too much lr extension rate in the shock, this will cause the lr to be too slow in extending, and this could make the car loose somewhere past entry. You need to watch the car closely on entry. Look at the front tires. Is the car pushing on entry? Does the car turn in ok, but then get tight or loose after entry? Must fix entry first, then mid corner, then exit.

What is extremely loose? Is he spinng out?

Are you letting off the fuel to get it to turn, or will it turn in with the wheel only?

The driver is trail braking but LR still falls when he let's out of the fuel. The Dummy shock is mounted to the birdcage. Should we mount to tube? Possibly a much heavier LR compression? Raise J-Bar on chassis to help left rear attitude. Someone has gone through this as a driver or car owner?

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Originally Posted by Cranky

The driver is trail braking but LR still falls when he let's out of the fuel. The Dummy shock is mounted to the birdcage. Should we mount to tube? Possibly a much heavier LR compression? Raise J-Bar on chassis to help left rear attitude. Someone has gone through this as a driver or car owner?

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Figuring out what the real problem is always the hardest part, having said that. . . .


If the left and rear % are correct to what the chassis manufacturer wants the car doesn't know the weight of the driver. However, it could be a COG issue from the driver being heavy on the lower half of the body making the COG lower then it's supposed to be and car doesn't want to stay rolled over to right. So is that a driver weight issue or do you have a shock or other set up issue where it would do it with a small driver?

My guess's are:

1. COG to low
2. Shock package not what it's supposed to be or what you think it is
3. Driver not doing the proper things to keep car up
4. An unusual track, maybe paper clip style where your slowing on entry before you actually turn in so car will tend to set down more and may require a set up outside the base set recommendation.

Moving LRF shock off cage to the axle will make the shock act softer thus likely make situation worse, unless you changed the valving

Sounds like too much extended load!

Did Longhorn know the weight of your driver?

there is a thousand ideas to help your problem , but one thing we did with a heavy driver was to run a brake floater on left rear . of coarse that was before all the soft right front with bump stops and the such , but it helped him tremendously at the time , it was a unit that port city racing sold for dirt late models , BTW , there is a time when it is still beneficial ....

Somethings dont make since here, from your original post.

ITs falling off the bars, or droping and its still lose on entry?

A lot of people make the mistake of feeling loose because the 4 wheel steering at full hike. If you enter on the fuel at full hike the feeling of the car will be real quick, because your at full rear steer, soon as you crack the wheel left its happening. Some guys arnt used to that, and will say its lose.

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Originally Posted by ZERO25

Sounds like too much extended load!Did Longhorn know the weight of your driver?

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OP: "car sits down on entry"
Zero25: Sounds like *too much* extended load
Lololol. Gotta love 4m
What Billlet said sounds right. Car doesn't know what the driver weighs, just where the center of gravity is. Not trying to be mean, but tell your driver to lose some weight. You are at a serious disadvantage with 100 more pounds in the seat than other drivers, and if you want to take racing seriously, cant be doing that.

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Originally Posted by fastford

there is a thousand ideas to help your problem , but one thing we did with a heavy driver was to run a brake floater on left rear . of coarse that was before all the soft right front with bump stops and the such , but it helped him tremendously at the time , it was a unit that port city racing sold for dirt late models , BTW , there is a time when it is still beneficial ....

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Recently saw one on a top crate racers car in our area!

by the stupid suspension rules, brake floaters aren't legal...that's an extra suspension rod

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Originally Posted by manwplan

by the stupid suspension rules, brake floaters aren't legal...that's an extra suspension rod

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That's was always my take on it.

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Originally Posted by manwplan

by the stupid suspension rules, brake floaters aren't legal...that's an extra suspension rod

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I guess rumley caused that rule with his magic , lol , but you hit the nail on the head , STUPID RULES !!!!!!

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Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer

That's was always my take on it.

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I guess if you put the break caliper on the bird cage it could still have some effect ...

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Originally Posted by fastford

I guess if you put the break caliper on the bird cage it could still have some effect ...

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Yes, somewhat. I used to run separate floaters on both sides of a 4 link. Bars everywhere. Lol

Perhaps increase the mid-range wheel load in the RF but keeping the 4” number where it is now.