I think sport mods are in the 50-100lbs range, last time I looked at a setup baseline for the ones I help
I think sport mods are in the 50-100lbs range, last time I looked at a setup baseline for the ones I help
7uptruckracer, thats what I understand too. So to get down to that level, I didnt know if there was anything I could do besides adding ballast to the RR to get down to that range.
what do I do to get the LR bite down to the 20-80 range?
You braking the car?What does it do if you enter without brake?
stock car driver: I have played with the weight jacks in the back a little, but I have not sat on a scale to see what it does. Do you turn the weight jack in or out on the RR and/or LR to get the LR bite down?
let-r-eat: I do brake going in, but I do it pretty late. If I just try to let off the gas, it pushes going in.
regor,I would recommend jumping on the dirt forum. I have put quite a bit of our setup informaiton on there. We normally run quite a bit more bite as a baseline than what these guys are recommending. Key is your entire setup has to work together. I am a big believer in freeing up the car on entry and then making plenty of forward bite off. Just need to have the motor to pull it, and it also depends on whether or not you are running a crate or open motor. Shouldn't need as much bite with a crate motor because they generally run quite a bit less gear than an open motor. PM me or give me and we can exchange information and I can give you more help if you want it.Where do you race? Good luck!BBR (Baker Brothers Racing) Motorsports
stock car driver is giving you some good advice. my question is: how do you know you have 150lbs of lr bite if you haven't had the car on the scales and you have been adjusting the rear weight jack bolts? Get the car on the scales and record how it is now. then adjust like stock car driver told you.
killer bee: I had the car on the scales. Thats how I knew my weight percentages and LR bite. But I did not adjust anything while it was on the scales - just put it on the scales, recorded the numbers, and left. My bad. Next time I will do some adjustments while on the scales to see how the numbers change.
sorry, I misread your post. here is a link to an adjustment sheet that might give you a little help also. good luck.
http://www.larryshaw.com/printablesetupsheet.pdf
I am a huge believer in this sheet. The big thing we have found that is different is that with only 2 bars instead of 4 things are more of a balancing act. Your right side bar basically acts like the right side lower bar. Your left side bar generally acts like the left side upper bar. If you use this as a basic guide your car is going to be fast most nights.Quote:
Originally Posted by killer bee
7up, Im very confused about what you are saying here. How does putting 2" wheels on the left and 4" wheels on the right NOT lower his left side %?? Not sure how you figure things where your at but Im glad I disagree with you on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7uptruckracer
2" Rights and 4" lefts will raise his Left Percentage, which is what he wants, He suggested sucking in the lefts and Shoving outs the rights to LOWER left side which you told him is the opposite of what it would do, which is correct you then told him to run 2" on left and 4" on right...4" lefts and 2" rights is MAX left side 2" and 4" rights is MIN left side agree?
I apologize he wanted less left. I thought he wanted more!!! Less left with tighten your entry but also tighten the rest of your corner. Post all your setup and we can all get you straight.
Back in the spring, these were my corner weights: LF 613 RF 528 LR 734 RR 587. That was with no ballast on the car. Springs were 700 across the front and LR 175 RR 150. I run the Bilstein sportmod shock package. My ride heights were about one inch higher from the front to the back, and about one and a half inch higher from the left to the right. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of not writing down what wheel offsets, spacers, or air pressure I had when I did it.
I'm going to go back to the scales and make sure I have all of that documented too, so I can test changing the offsets, spacers, tire pressures, and see how it changes it.
I'm also trying to figure out what is a good starting point for ride heights. I've heard everything from LF 5 RF 5.5 LR 5.5 RR 6, to numbers at least 2-3 inches higher than that. I measure ride height on the flat part of the frame rails.
Nothing seems to off the wall except maybe your RR spring being a little soft it will free you entry but tighten your exit on throttle. I'd say your bite might be a good place to start It will take some LR weight off the car which puts less on the LR on Decel which is what turns you into the corner along with the LF but being your on a stuff LF spring already that seems ok.. One thing to pay attention to is your bar angles and your Jbar/straight bar mounting as well. If your weights are in the ballpark I wouldn't worry to much. Depending on your chassis make and chassis manufacturer those could be ok heights if you know your manufacturer post it. Sorry for the confusion!
I don't like that setup sheet either AFCOS is one of the more accurate or complete rather, best thing I ever did was go to the RACEWISE school the other year! It explains from the ground up as if you are completely inexperienced and want to learn how and why it works the way it does.
I measure my ride heights for the front at the center of the lower a arm bolts. Measure off the front part of the bolts. .
8in lf 7 3/4 rf is what i use. When you get into the car the front "should" be level doing it this way.If track is really dry slick i will set front with the rf 5/16- 3/8 lower to help car get over on rf. JMO
Cool guide. We do the same as stock car driver is saying for ride heights (get lower control arms level). I measure my amount of shock extended and normally use that as my base measurement as it is easier for me to be consistent with it.