Just bought one of these LXT cars, anyone have any experience with one? What’s the differences between them and the other cars If any?
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Just bought one of these LXT cars, anyone have any experience with one? What’s the differences between them and the other cars If any?
If I remember correctly, it's basically a Huey from Crothersville. Bar lengths in back are smackdown, front is gen x. One of the smack conversions we have, they added lxt to the original serial number when the gen x front was added.
Also. The right side frame rails are raised 1" higher than the MBH cars.
Thanks for the reply’s. We’ll be running it as a crate. Just had ppm go through a set of ohlins piggybacks for it. We’ll see what happens.
Having had both a Gen-X and Smackdown, I always thought one of these would be a great choice if getting a third MasterSbilt. I liked the Gen-X front end better and the Smackdown rear seemed to suit either my driving style, or the tracks I ran, better.
Good luck!
I like them. Been running the same cars since like 2013, so I know them pretty well. Both have had surgery since then, but just to upgrade stuff. Both started out as smack. Both have had each end stiffened and gen x fronts put on. One is square and one is round, but they can't seem to tell the difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJet-09
LOL.....people scoffed when Epj told me, he couldnt tell the difference either! I believe that was in 06 when he won the world!
People make too big a deal out of tiny changes to chassis and say this makes one good and one bad. If it has enough stiffness to start, they will be pretty much the same if you make everything else the same. That's the part most people screw up on and don't realize it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZERO25
I'm not afraid to admit, I always gravitated towards a square tube chassis because I figured it'd be easier to fix if I bent her a little (less time cutting out the old, notching, etc). I never considered what differences in performance there might have been (and doubt a driver of my caliber would ever feel any regardless).
Before the frames got stiffer in the last 5 to 6 years, 2 cars identical but one being 2" square vs 1.75 or even 2" round: The square tube cars seem on average to be looser in and tighter off and vice versa with the round tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJet-09
Note: talking cars in general not a particular brand like a masters
i need to cut the rails out of my XR-1 and put square tube rails in then!!!!!!
You have a welder.Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
not afraid to use it and the plasma cutterQuote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Did you raise the crossmember yourself or did you buy the kit Masters sells? We have a guy wanting to give us 2 Smackdowns thats gonna need some surgery!Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
That part was done at Masters on one car, when it needed a clip. I think Justadddirt put the kit in the other one, if I remember correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZERO25
Krooser put the kit in his car. He said it was easy.
Try adding a brace from the RF shock area to the right head on the motor and see if that helps and or make a bolt in left upper rail like masterbilt_racers car and see if that helpsQuote:
Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
Can do! than youQuote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
You can make life easier for yourself by short cutting both of those for a temporary trialQuote:
Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
LF bar: use a couple wieght clamps and use a piece of tubing 1.25 or 1.5 and weld slugs or nuts on the end for 1/2" rod ends. That bar is usually bent some but you may be able to use a straight bar if you go right next to the LF mount.
RF to head: Same deal weld a tab on upper rail and run 2 tie rods to it, one from the lower head bolt and the other to the higher one to make a triangle. Easier then a plate and will tell you if that helps without a ton of work. Those could be smaller 3/8 rod ends and some alum tubes or make some out of small diameter steel tubing with nuts welded to it to make a tie rod bar. Put one rod end on each side of the welded on tab on frame.
that is exactly what i was going to do. clamp them in to see if it does what it should.
For those who are interested......theres a couple of backyard mechanics called Late Model Garage, that bought the kit from Masters and put it in themselves. Seemed fairly easy and turned out nice!
That rf to the head is an old Bill Frye deal, I'd say it is 25 years old but it worked!
Why not just run an engine plate at front of engine too?Quote:
Originally Posted by profab00
Mostly due to different engine combo's. You would likely need several plates if you have different motor combo's, due to different deck heights and various cylinder head combo's. The rod end deal is easy, simple and easily adjustable.Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMLew
Frye used to have one on all his cars that I can remember way back to 94/95ish that I recall
As a side note:
I really don't expect justadddirt to come back and say it's fixed his issue. May notice a change but doubt it cures his car from this alone.