Just wondering if ppl have tried it and if u have had any luck also wondering how the pedal feel was?
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Just wondering if ppl have tried it and if u have had any luck also wondering how the pedal feel was?
it is cheap and easy to run, but it doesnt have as hard of a pedal as steel lines.
never had a problem with them, I always try to route them away from heat and keep them clear from moving parts or even decking that could move around..try to keep spare fittings and lines in the parts box so repiers at track are easy and fast
Have u have very many problems with it blowing or rocks hitting it and busting it? Seen some new quality cars with it this year and we have thought about using it
Its light, its cheap and easy to work with but if you have to weld around it you must move it, it expands when you get on the binders causing a spongier pedal and yes it could bust from a rock.. Willwood rep will ask you if you have heard of it leaking behind someones fridge running an ice maker,if you cant trust it there can you trust running off into the corner on a big halfmile with your life possibly depending on it??? I would run steel buy a decent tubing bender and keep all you lines running down hill toward the caliper from master limit any loops,or tight bends or upward angles cause that will also cause a spongy hard to bleed system.. Its pretty easy to buy a couple t's and most chassis builders tell you what length lines you need so theres no need to flare just buy different lengths and start playing youll b much happier..
I've used it for quite a few years with no trouble at all. Haven't noticed the spongey pedal they're talking about. If it expanded it would be cracking. It's pretty tough stuff.
Plastic? Brakes? Makes me a bit nervous.
Dont do it!
If your car catches on fire, its going to be pretty hard to get it stopped and get out with your brake lines melted.
BINGO thats the reason Im taking them off the new car I bought. I already melted one welding near it!Quote:
Originally Posted by JCSullivan00
I have been running it for years now. Never had any problems. I am not stupid enough to weld near it either.
Best part is its clear. You can see problems early and fix them before they cause problems on the track. We had a bleeder go bad last season. It was not leaking under pressure but would let small amounts of air in. The car chief spotted it while doing a walk around.
I have also had an engine expire in a ball of flame. It did blister the lines but non of them burst or leaked. You have to get them really hot and really fast for that to happen.
Didn`t know they made plastic thats compatible with brake fluid? Old car got new steel brake lines put on this winter, and new car has steel lines also. Never did like a car that had plastic lines. Feel alot safer with steel! JMO
This is a no brainer to me steel all the way it is not that hard to run steel lines.I have a friend who does lots of cars he just buys one of the brake line kits he will have to buy a couple of lines to finish. Me I buy it in rolls cut and flare my own lines after helping him do some I think his way might be easier.
If you run it correctly it will last a few years and not have issues. I have installed in on asphalt and dirt cars since the mid to late 90's. It takes about 1 minute to make an at the track repair in the line that would require a new steel line. If you run it correctly fire is not an issue. This same product is used on most sprint cars, Indy, Indy lite, Mazda series and road race cars all over the world and it is the EXACT same tubing that is in the 8-12 inch lines that have the stainless braid over them that go from your calipers to the chassis now and believe me that little braid is ONLY there for rock protection and offers zero insulation against fires! As far as welding next to it, it is plastic and it seems that it would be a no brainer not to weld around your brake or gas lines no matter what they are made of, I have seen weld spatter hit and make a hole in steel lines.
zHow many of you that say it is so easy running steel lines are using a correct angle double flairing tool for the fittings you are using???? Now how many of you have no idea what a double flairing tool is and are just using a regular tubing cutter and flairing tool? I would much rather have correctly run plastic than steel that is not run correctly and waiting to crack and fail.
i have used it for years also moved if it from one car to another has been in use for 5 years on this car and another had to slice a spot last year due to rubbed hole in line the kits you by have extra fittings and splices in it just carry with you to track can repair in min. i found my leak at home doing weekly inspection spliced and bleed no problem always make sure its routed on back of tubing away from flying rocks and parts
what do you thinks inside steel braided line ????? its the same stuff it works fine lots of guyys find it spongy because the done mount it right or have big gaps betyween mounting that let the line flex if mounted right its not spongy
running steel lines is easy...not a very good argument. if your not comfortable using a flare tool then every parts store in the world sells premade lines in various lengths and couplers. you can bend it by hand and you wont ever need to worry about reparing it at the track because it wont fail like plastic. if you get wrecked hard enough to ruin your steel brake line, put it on the trailer, your night is done anyway!
I have had to repair a steel brake line at the track when a rock hit it and pinched it and it ruptured, so yes you can have a leaking steel line at the track without ever getting wrecked heck I have had to fix them when we raced on asphalt! It easily takes about 1/3 the time to properly run nylon lines than steel and you do not need any special tools.
wow you managed to rupture a steel line that can hold 2000psi of pressure! i'm guessing eitherQuote:
Originally Posted by Egoracing
A: your lying
B: you dont know how to run brake lines
C: you race in a rock quarry
reread the second sentence of my post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Egoracing
Internal pressure capability of a line and the ability of a rock to nick it are two totaly different things, the nylon can handle 2000 psi also but again can be nicked.Quote:
Originally Posted by stockcar5
As for the second line, you are not supposed to use flairing tool on brake lines you are suposed to use a double flairing tool to fit the ends that are made for it. The double tool uses a different angle (45 degrees when a regular flare tool is 37 degrees) and you can easily screw them up if you do not know what you are doing with them.
A double flaring tool is a flaring tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Egoracing
Who cares
i assumed you knew i was talking about a double flare 45 degree tool for brakes..my bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Egoracing
as far as the double tool using a different angle than the single flare tool, that is wrong..they make double and single flare tools in both 37 and 45 degree. the 37 degree is the standard AN flare.
after all of this i can see why that make plastic brake line kits..for people like you.
Thats awesome!! Luke I sent you a message on here about the chassis chad got from you. I think you need to click on your name to get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by stockcar5
You answer questions like everyone knows what you are talking about, you repeatedly said flare tool and that is NOT correct and someone reading that didn't know better would go get one and use it. Do you have any idea how many different diameters and thicknesses there are on "standard" steel lines??? Didn't think so, get the wrong one and your double flares will be junk.
I guess people like me are the same reason that nylon is used in Indy and F-1 and on 99.9% of the dirt late models and modifieds, because we are intelligent enough to know how to run it without having any issues.
seems like 99.9% of people know that when i talk about a flare tool in a post about brake lines that i am refering to a brake flare tool. congratulations you are the .1% that didnt comprehend. just read the post slower next time, let it sink in.
p.s. like i said before if all else fails you can buy premade lines with proper double flares and nuts already done for you. this may be the route to go for someone like yourself.
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I have installed in on asphalt and dirt cars since the mid to late 90's. It takes about 1 minute to make an at the track repair in the line that would require a new steel line.
I have never repaired a steel line at the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by amish119
thanks to the bots for the bump from 2011