Any reason NOT to get a 16v battery vs a 12v battery? Not running an alternator
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Any reason NOT to get a 16v battery vs a 12v battery? Not running an alternator
if you looking for a down side, I'd say cost for the battery and charger to go with it. Other then that I really don't see one besides some electrical stuff isn't really made for 16V and may not last as long or have issues with the extra volts but doesn't really seem to be an issue for what most people have on the car.
Anyone else? Red top optima or 16v xs?
Never tried the 16 volt. Had a Red Top Optima for a few years with no issues. I'd probably stick with the 12 volt but if you do want to try the 16 volt, the most common brand I recall seeing is TurboStart. Although It's hard to beat the Optima batteries...
I am no battary expert and really don't know what makes them work but when it comes to the engine/ignition system what makes a difference is voltage
once the voltage drops the ignition is not as efficient causing a loss of power most noticably on the torque or low rpm side
when engines are under a load the ignition is drawing alot of amperage dragging the voltage down----
lap after lap this begins to lower the votage in the battary making late race performance less than desirable
anything below 12 volts and the ignition will be suffering
that is why we recommend mini alternators with 12 volt systems
a good 16 volt battary with proper maintenance and charging usually will operate perfectly without alternators
hope everyone has a Great Christmas
Brad
www.race-1.com
I'be been running the yellow top Optima for years with no problems. I can't tell any difference in power from the seat at the end of 20 laps of a weekly feature. But i'm far from any expert on this. No alternator , I do charge battery day of race?
To each his own on this subject. We run the blue top optima with the mini alternator. Maybe it does or maybe it does not help I really don't know. What I do know is the voltmeter gauge in the car is on 14.1 anytime the engine is running. Enough voltage to keep the ignition operating at optimal performance. I also know we installed our first alternator 3 years ago and to this very day have yet to hook a battery charger to the racecar since.To me the pro's definitely out weigh the con's. Anytime that is the case and it is financially feasible I would use an alternator.
Ran 16v for years wouldn't have anything else .Starters last longer .As far as alternator go that's just one more thing to go wrong..
Stock Car,
I cannot attest to how a 15 to 1 engine will react to a lesser primary voltage but my thoughts would have been opposite of your results
I do believe you and all the others that have not noticed power loss or acceleration loss with 12 volt or low voltage situations----I think 12 volt systems without an alternator are the majority in our world so i cannot say that its wrong or you have to maintain high voltage to win
but we have had endless results and testimony to low voltage drivability issues.
we do all of our work on an engine dyno rather than chassis dyno but I don't feel either would mask this situation
I will bet that your 10 volt reading was recorded at peak load ----as thats when the ignition is drawing the most power------we see this during a pull even with good 12 volt battarys
its a hard to convince anyone that is "not haviving problems" with their program to make a change and thats why we don't insist apon it with anyone and in many cases we do not even discuss it because I realize that its an expense, weight, and more stuff to go wrong
But I do feel in the long run either a 16 volt system or a 12 volt with an alternator is the best performing
just consider that if your building new or if you are having issues----JMO
Brad
www.race-1.com
was it MSD (box style) or HEI---just curious
like I said ----I don't doubt what your saying as I see it and hear about it constantly----I am just saying if you are having issues or wanting to avoid possible issues I would look at more stable primary voltage
i always heard the a 16v is recommended if u are running a MSD setup. anyone know for sure about this?
Do most people run a stepdown regulator when using a 16v battery?
If one is one 12v which alternator are you guys running or recommending?
Once the system builds enough voltage to jump the plug gap it fires.If your system is capable of 45,000 volts, but only 29,000 volts are need to jump the gap that is all it will produce.That is why a lower voltage might not hurt power.Does a MSD box have an internal voltage regulator?If you are putting in 16 volts does it regulate back down to 12 volts?
I started using 16 volts when we were on the HEIs.It does give them more capability.starters lasted longer.Once you have the charger might as well keep getting the batteries.
mod88s
12v vs 16v is an ongoing debate across all forms of racing. What we have found over the years is you need to look at a steady Voltage & Current source to the equipment. It does not matter if its just a points,HEI or a MSD,Crane CD type box. They all respond ( Better Output) if their main power is held constant for best effort output. Is it a Giant killer must have type of upgrade that you will never win without it no. But it is all part of the Blueprinting process you should be applying across your racing platform. If you are in a class that the top 10 are Always within hundreths & thousandths of a second off of each other. Then this is something that can help your program move to its next level of performance. If your choice is to run a 12 volt setup, consider running an Alternator like Brad mentioned. If you don't want to run an Alternator then consider moving to a 16 volt setup. The 16 volt battery source power very quickly and will provide a constant output until they hit the wall. ( exhaust themselves) When were asked to explain why? This is how we like to explain it. This is no different than getting the fuel pressure and volume correct to the carb. So when the carb throttle blade is opened there is No delay in fuel delivery! ( Its there Now!!! ) Electricity works in the same way just using Voltage & Current. As for compatibility issues with the higher voltage. Unless you are running 15 year old plus electronics most current equipment can handle the increase. If in doubt check with the manufacturer docs they usually have a range of 12 volts to 18 volts.
In any form of racing today we are always looking for best effort out of the equipment used for monies spent. All racers, sportsmen to pro have budgets that can restrict what is done to the program and when. So just consider you have something you can upgrade to once the opportunity presents itself. Like everything out there today for the racer to consider you can lead the horse to water but you can't make him drink. Just my .02......
EP35510
I 'm using a 6al digital with 8252 coil ,16 volt xs battery ,open motor.I have several of the analog 6al boxes, can you convert them over to the same connectors as the 6al digital so I can use them as spares.
save the racers
Good afternoon, I currently don't stock any because we have not needed them. I will call around Monday to see if I can locate them. If we can get access to the connectors then swapping should not be an issue.
Pat Collins
I am going to get a 16v battery. My question is this: Is the XS S1600(red one) a good choice? There are so many XS batteries just want to make sure to get the right one. The S1600 is the lightweight one that weighs around 30 pounds. There are other XS ones that have more cold cranking amps but weight around 48 pounds. Which one do most people use?
The s1600 if you use an alt. I used it without an alt. and it lasted about 2 years.The 48lbs batteries have lasted several years
It would be recommended to use one for things like gauges and electric RF cut offs. Can it be done and do people do it, of course. Most aren't designed for the extra 16v and spikes of 18-19v can occur, especially if charging.Quote:
Originally Posted by mod88s
Rock racing batteries have a really good product. They offer one with 2 positive post, one 12 volt and one 16 volt. A very nice charger too. Had a crate car with new 12 volt XS. Engine seemed to always be in a bind, like it was locking up after 10 to 15 laps turned out to be a bad battery. Went with a Rock batt and charger no further issues. Rock Batteries are made in the USA too!!