can anyone give any input is one better then the other and what differences are there
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can anyone give any input is one better then the other and what differences are there
Not saying it's right but i was told narrow for limited engines and wide for supers. Wide makes a tighter car on entry I guess.
Im not aware of their being a wide xr1 option. Are you talking about a blue/grey car ?
no the rear halo on a xr1 there is a wide or narrow option.....
I can't tell a difference, shrugsQuote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
It's not an option. It was a change that started in 18 for safety but i don't it was received well because some had it some didn't. So naturally some said ones better than the other. So i think they just went back to the original design.
But like billet said i don't think their is much of a difference I've seen both win in crate steel block and super
thanks King24!!! i have a wide cage car and have struggeled with it there is 2 that i know of locally and we both have same issues no traction in the slick the narrow cars in my area seem to have traction maybe im searching for somthing that has nothing to do with it was just a thought
I am not the smartest guy in the world, but if I had to put a percentage on the effects of making the cage a few inches wider on handling (all else being equal), I would put it somewhere between 0% and 0.5%.Quote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
Yes i doubt it has anything to do with that one car that i can point out from last year was Devin Moran. They tore a car up early in the year and got a new one it was "wide"and that is the car he had many of his good runs in. Generally people who struggle for traction in the slick are too tight on entry to the middle and sheer the car. Also the slick is usually when things like binding bird cage bearings or generally any bind ing in the car become a problemQuote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
my car came from tye he is my rocket dealer and thats why the (wide) car.....i just heard from another guy baker told him josh said he wouldnt want to see another wide car there terrible and im not sure they make them that way anymore im with you guys 1.5 inches cant make or break a car or can it?
Eckert, said the same thing the wide cars aren't as good. That being said every wide car I've dealt with runs great, I haven't noticed a difference in them.Quote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
Now with that being said, I've seen several that are really good in the traction with an XR1 but semi struggle in the dead slick. However that's without being involved in their program so it's hard to say if it's the car or what they are doing, I'm inclined to believe it's what they are doing and not so much the car.
I agree billet i would like to think these cars are fairly consistent at least for the cost of them i would hope.....im not kevin rumley bye any means but also dont think im a idiot also i feel like no matter what i try or change not much of a difference in the car....its a slow stop and go track i run at mostley thats slick the kryptonite cars shine there would like to keep my rocket but the starting up front and falling to 7th or 8th most nights is making me question the car....or maybe the reality is i suck haha thanks for the replies
Just an observation here, but i have noticed a lot of the K cars really index that LR birdcage fwd, the upper bar is dead straight with the cage, close to over indexing. The XR1 cars i noticed run more the parallel bar deal, more of the modern set up type, birdcage more vertical at the bottom of travel.
Have you tried the longer LR upper bar, 1" aft on the birdcage?
I know it may be apples to oranges, car to car, set up to set up, but something i have noticed that stuck out to me.
Stop and go is the worst track for a XR1, IMO so it's probably not you.
thats what i needed to hear billet lol
I'd say the car is no good. What you want for it? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
She’s for sale!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
we just updated our 2010 blue to xr1 rear brackets and it has never been faster.. definitely tighter, had to loosen entry and middle but way better
In case I made my post sound wrong: Slick or powdery stop and go tracks with an XR1 aren't great using something similar to the baseline set up. You will need to stray a fair ways from the base, in a couple area's but again really depends on the track, dirt, tires and rules.
The baseline is more for when you can momentum race, IMO.
thats my next idea is to put a 300 in rf try stiffing it up some all the way threw travel and i just got one of the swift 2.5-5 80lb springs for lr has anyone had any luck with it?
If you need an 80# spring, it will serve you well. Nothing magic.Quote:
Originally Posted by maypop racing engines
Totally Agree MBR, with that I wouldn't use a single LR spring unless your bound to it by a rule (crates lates usually)
iv ran stacks on it and sucked lol im thinkin just use straight springs on all 4 corners and breaking out the scales and set it up like it was 2010 not sure if thats the answer or not but dont think it could be much worse
You ran a digressive stack?
I can tell you for a fact there is a difference in early and late xr1s. I have felt it
How many of each did you drive with shocks, components, and dynamic where loads all the same?Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewinder69
I just pulled shocks off one and put on the other and back to back. Early xr1s are better
We don't have an XR-1 but I've heard of a couple local Super teams that went back to 16 cars because they didn't like the 18.
Sooo, how are they better? Serious question! There are different cages, 4 bar plates, LR available drop, bar/s in frame, welded rack skid plate, custom options only some add or delete, etc, etc. If updates were or were not done, two of the same year could be very different, also depends how it was ordered, built, and components used. Track lore spreads as fast as a bad fart, is very situational and subjective. I see plenty of newer cars for sale with old components on them. The used racecar market is a venomous snake pit! Buyer beware!
That snake pit extends to engines and lots of other racing items. You are right on with that comment. It's scary out there!Quote:
Originally Posted by CCHIEF
Which areas needs to get away from baseline? Same problem happening but only on very small, paperclip track, that is very dryQuote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
I'm definitely not saying this will be 100% fix for everyone or every track and tire rule:
Adjusting the rear weight can/will help a lot of people in those conditions. OP said K cars run good there, now that could just be the teams but K cars (least last I knew a year ago) run about 2% more rear.
Again this could worsen your problem depending on the track, but if it's tight corners and more one lane then more rear may help a fair amount getting the car turned and off the corner.
mastersbilt, iv had a decent local guy drive my car (wide cage) he has a xr1 former house car (narrow) we put his shocks on and he said the car dont have the same feel as his does ....now hes confident the car is good there is just somthing missing somewhere but when he drove the track wasnt slick is the downfall
new cars travel more, some know how to work with it, some don't
House cars are usually heavily optioned, some options don't make it to production or are impossible to change, result of them doing research for Their customers. Without getting into the details, swapping shocks from a 16 to a new car, or other direction, results in a big change in the car. ...Anyone wanting rid of one of the "junk" new chassis's, cheap .....please contact me via PM.
cchief tried sending you pm your inbox is full