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I have read numerous posts about oil, and I am even more confused now. I run imca hobby stock SBC solid flat tappet can with stock type rocker arms. I have been running Schaeffer 9000 full synthetic oil with a bottle of Lucas oil break in additive. I have been told synthetic is not advised with a solid cam. What the heck does a guy run. $16 per quart for Gibbs seems ridiculous.
You can run a syn with a flat tappet, no problem. If your oil is working for you, no need to change. However, Brad Penn is always a good choice.
Dollar for dollar, the Brad Penn is a great choice. Have used in numerous flat tappet race engines with zero oil related problems. The Driven XP4 is also an excellent choice but cost a bit more usually.
Just my personal experience I wouldnt use brad penn if it was given to me always had problems keeping sludge out of the pan with it. When to valvoline vr1 racing oil and problem solved and havent had any issues since.
Gibbs has been working well for me the last 5 years or so. Before that i used royal purple. No cam issues here in over a decade.
Also had problems with Brad Penn leaving dark slime in bottom of pan. Not sure, but I would say it was an additive that was coming out of suspension. ?? Flat tappet with synthetic: no problem. Just make sure to get the ZDDP from somewhere; either in the oil or an additive as you have been doing.
Hendrens has done a lot of dyno work with different oils. Schaeffers was always one of the best.
I agree with above post, i ran delo 400 diesel oil for years in flat tappet engines with no problems, after they took the zinc out when all the low emission laws came out, i switched to Schaeffer racing oil with high ZDDP already in it, i have had good luck with this oil and the price is reasonable also..jmo
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Originally Posted by dereksehi
Just for conversation sake... Do you or ford396 run alky and if so does your carb burn your eyes when it idles, or have you ever had a issue with the carb where it was flooding over or didnt run right? I have run Penn awhile and ran alky. I feel like the problem was actually with the alky, since switching to gas my oil pan did not have the sludge.
No I have never ran alky the issue was when running both racing fuel and aviation gas and the exhaust doesnt burn your eyes when running even inside.
Do you know how hot the oil got? How many laps/nights were you running it between changes?
Everyone says it has a high moly content thats the reason for the crud in the pan. The only complaints i have heard about the oil is when it forms crud in the pan. Seems to protect the engine in most cases if you can live with the crud.
I ran 4 nites in between oil changes and had issues burning comp roller tip rockers while running brad penn also when I made the switch to valvoline that issue was resolved. There was some research done on oil load carrying capacity that made me decide to make the switch brad penn was rated at 71,000 psi where as valvline vr1 synthetic was rated at 103,000 psi.
Never ran alky. Carb always idled clean. Changed to Gibbs this year and no more crap in the pan?? Not sure. Used to use the Penn all the time and never had a problem until the last two years. Do not know if they changed something or if my needs in oil changed. Either way, I have no complaints with the Gibbs now.Quote:
Originally Posted by powerslide
Bob
The vr1 synthetic is my choice. Reasonable and provides great protection. I have recently been experimenting with red line and some polyol Esther based products but still haven't been impressed. The vr1 synthetic sapphire will throw those oil test machines for a loop too. Btw
My son runs Schaeffer in his mod on the recommendation of his engine builder. I also like Gibbs, Lucas, CenPeCo and Amsoil. I'm not an oil snob… there are several good choices out there.
I run Schaeffer and Gibbs. Never an issue. They will take the high oil temps these beasts put out too.
Sorry, that wasn't research that you read, just some ego-maniac named 540RAT with a one-arm bandit and a bottle of Adderall. Even if it was a legit test, the load carrying capacity of an oil means nothing by itself. But like I said previously, if you've found an oil that works for you, that's all the research you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by dereksehi
What weight oil does everyone run? I have had trouble with the rocker arms turning blue at the pivot balls. I have been running Schaefer 10-30 synthetic should I switch back to a 20/50?
I'm getting the grey sludge. I notice it when I'm cleaning my filter. (system 1). It seems to settle out, and I don't think it is in solution while the engine is running, but who knows. What does everyone think of this, and is it an issue? I run VR1, and alcohol.
Haven't seen it mentioned, but I run Northland MXP 20w50.
did you use moly lube to put the engine together?Quote:
Originally Posted by keeks
I used clevite assembly lube, and Gibbs BR for break in run.
Go read over on yellowbullet about the system1 cartridge filters. Not good as a primary filter, go back to a regular wix paper not the racing. 51061Quote:
Originally Posted by keeks
i've been using Mystic 15w50 for about 10 years now and never had any oil related issues. Its a semi-synthetic oil i change every 4 races with a filter every 2.