Tires breaking loose on exit

I drive a 3200 lbs street stock with a 358 with a 1.82 glide with 3.42 gears and I run in low, The car has RF 950 spring with easy up afco shock, LF 850 spring with heavy afco shock, LR is a 225 with a tie down shock and RR 175 with a 50/50 shock. I haven't had the car scaled this year so I don't know bite or % etc yet. The car goes into the corner pretty well with a very slight push depends on track condition, rotates well and gets pointed in the right direction pretty well but as soon as I give the gas no matter how much I feather it the tires break loose, so I loose my forward drive. Any advice on how I can try and stop this while I am waiting to be scaled? Tires are 8x15 Hoosier, I run 2 inch offsets on the front and 3 on the back RR and a 2 on LR in the feature I have a 1 inch spacer on RF and LR, The guys with a better set up and running the 602 are killing me because I cant get out of the corner hooked up. I have a buddy on here helping me online, but you can never have enough advice I feel.

Get it scaled, start with 53% rear and 150lbs of bite.Start dropping timing till it starts to hook up or adjust the throttle linkage to slow down the carb.I would put a pair of 5rebound /3 comp. shocks on the front, 5r/5c on l/r

Change the RR to 200.
Dont use the spacer on the RF.
Scale the car and get at least 100# bite on LR and 40# bite on LF

Is your throttle linkage setup right? Does the pedal have a lot of play? I drove a car once to give some setup advice that the throttle was kinda "all or nothing" in the terms of modulation. Gave him just that little advice and he went from back of pack to fighting for the lead almost instantly.Does the linkage go to the bottom hole on your pedal? If you run a qjet, you can drill a hole just in front (about 10 o clock) of the original hole. That should slow down how fast the linkage engages to full open.

put the rf spring on the lf and get a 1100 for rf

Another thought. Try to exit the corner straight. No input in the wheel when exiting corner. Helps both wheels in rear hookup.

I will look into the linkage , if I remember right it only had 2.75 inch of travel from nothing to full out so I will try and get more travel, also was thinking the rear suspension was binding because it wasn't squatting . I thought about the timing being set back, might not be a bad idea. Had engine problems last year and couldn't find a miss at high RPM, found out later what the problem was but ran 3rd that night greatly under powered.

I shortened the throttle linkage and now it has 3.25 inches of travel, also went threw the rear suspension and found the LR shock was toast, it had very low Compression and zero rebound. I put a 175 on LR and a 150 on RR, I pre loaded the sway bar to add cross and raised the back of the car 1/2 inch. I also will be putting the timing from 38 to 36 in hopes that I can get it to hook up.

in my opinion, one needs a minimum of 4" travel on the throttle for a smooth transition.
Any less and it will be like a lightswitch

I will get it to the 4 inches of travel. I raced Saturday night and the car was a lot better with the changes still need a little more so when I adjust the linkage I will try it again, getting close on set up I also ground the rear tires, that seem to help a lot as well.

One thing to consider on the suspension side of it. The stiffer the spring the more load that it is going to have and also will affect the other corner(example: if a LR spring goes up in lbs, the RF will also gain some weight) I would go with something a bit more conservative on springs to get you started in the right direction. Scale Weights and some rules ( weight jacks, lead?)are pretty important to figure out springs. But if I could recommend springs I would go with this, high banking- 1100 RF, 1000 LF, 200 RR, 225 LR. low banking 1000RF, 1100 LF , RR 175, LR 200. As far as shocks go. Just remember they are timing devices. Lower comp/rebound means it reacts faster. And vice versa. So, with that being said, a stop and go kind of track lower comp and rebound all around, long sweeping I would slow down the transfer to the rear just to keep mid corner from pushing. Is this a gm metric or leaf car (camaro, nova?)

This is a GM metric car , it has rear load bolts, the track is a fairly tight corner 1/3 mile clay oval. Rules for shocks here are Max $100.00 each and are sealed shocks in factory location. We are aloud to grind tires bit no grooving or syping. We run Hoosier 8x15 tires I haven't had it on scales this year, last year scales % are as follows 54.2% Left 50.5 Rear and 50.2 cross, the car has 200 lbs lead over and just behind LR. Car weight with me is 3250, car was built when we had to weigh 3200. Now the metrics can weigh 3000 but I have shaved as much weight off it as I could.

Ok, definitely go up in rear %. 53 would be a great start. It's also got a lot of left side weight, good for asphalt, not really dirt. 150 LR bite. If you have weight jacks, getting the weight right is a lot easier. As far as weight, lower weight is good, but if your having forward traction issues. Use it. As far as shocks I like bilstein. But that's a drivers preference thing... Stop and go dry slick I would go with RF 40/40,LF 60/40, RR 30/30, LR 50/30 (comp/reb)

I tried the linkage, my max was 3 7/8 inches I would have to get a longer linkage rod.

And it's attached to your lowest hole on accelerator?

Yes sir I drilled in two holes even lower.

guys that I help around here with Metric cars have 55% plus rear weight and about 300+ LR weight.
but they weight 3600 lbs as well

Like most have posted, you need more rear %, at least 53%, with 150-200lbs of bite. If that's hard to get because of the weight, then you can start adding LR spring to get forward drive. I have ran as much as a 300 in LR on a slick track but then you'll have to increase RR and/or LF. I usually ran 900 RF and 1100-1300 LF depending on track.

wow some crazy advice in this thread

I ran 49 rear and 51 on dust and dry with 200 bite.

I NEVER ran more than 100 front spring split.

are you running a stock rearend? If your rearend is jigged poorly youll never have a good car.

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Originally Posted by stock car driver

wow some crazy advice in this thread

I ran 49 rear and 51 on dust and dry with 200 bite.

I NEVER ran more than 100 front spring split.

are you running a stock rearend? If your rearend is jigged poorly youll never have a good car.

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a lot can depend on motor rules as well. Pure stocks/hobby stocks around here, have some pretty stout engines, and run e-mod tires. 8" spoilers.

Yes its a stock rear end with Moser axles and a mini spool, 3.42 gears,

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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt

in my opinion, one needs a minimum of 4" travel on the throttle for a smooth transition.
Any less and it will be like a lightswitch

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Can you explain what lowering the carb linkage closer to the pivot point on the pedal does.